Posted by Fargo Rousseau (fargo_r@…>)
We did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial, all metal unit, FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom problems. We were also discouraged by the plastic parts on the Racor…which can melt in an engine room fire and leak fuel into the fire. Some insurance companies have taken a position on this issue. We changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours, always found a little water and grunge…and never found anything in our engine fuel filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM can with fuel before refitting…which made bleeding the air out easier. Always replaced the sealing ring…Best solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top with clean fuel, 2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1. We all know that sitting around is bad for our
boats…and our butts.Fargo (missing step 2 right now)Ex F30 #12
Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
In that case what about the rubber fuel hoses to and from the tank, rubber or plastic you are in trouble…if you have a fire most likely a lot of things are going south!BobOn Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Fargo Rousseau wrote:We did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial, all metal unit, FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom problems. We were also discouraged by the plastic parts on the Racor…which can melt in an engine room fire and leak fuel into the fire. Some insurance companies have taken a position on this issue. We changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours, always found a little water and grunge…and never found anything in our engine fuel filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM can with fuel before refitting… …which made bleeding the air out easier. Always replaced the sealing ring… Best solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top with clean fuel, 2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1. We all know that sitting around is bad for our boats…and our butts. Fargo (missing step 2 right now) Ex F30 #12
Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)
Fuel
hoses are required to meet certain heat standards. They’re not fireproof, but
they’re a lot better than non-fuel hoses.
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 10:11 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Cc: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:Racor fuel filters/Fram/easy
fix…no magnets
\
In that case what about the rubber fuel hoses to and from
the tank, rubber or plastic you are in trouble…if you have a fire most likely
a lot of things are going south!
Bob
On Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Fargo Rousseau wrote:
We
did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial, all metal unit,
FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom problems. We were also
discouraged by the plastic parts on the Racor…which can melt in an engine
room fire and leak fuel into the fire. Some insurance companies have taken a
position on this issue.
We
changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours, always found a little
water and grunge…and never found anything in our engine fuel
filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM can with fuel before
refitting… …which made bleeding the air out easier. Always
replaced the sealing ring…
Best
solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top with clean fuel,
2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1.
We
all know that sitting around is bad for our boats…and our butts.
Fargo
(missing step 2 right now)
Ex
F30 #12
\
Posted by Bob (rweeks6508@…>)
NO my point was if you were worried about the plastic parts on the fuel filter then what about all the fuel rubber hoses in the engine compartment? Either way they are both fire problem so it should not stop you from using the fileter when the benefits are pretty good as far as separation of fuel and water etc. Only an opinion…Bob On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 10:16 AM, Al Lorman wrote:Fuel hoses are required to meet certain heat standards. They’re not fireproof, but they’re a lot better than non-fuel hoses. From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne rsGroup@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 10:11 AM To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com Cc: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Re:Racor fuel filters/Fram/ easy fix…no magnets In that case what about the rubber fuel hoses to and from the tank, rubber or plastic you are in trouble…if you have a fire most likely a lot of things are going south! Bob On Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Fargo Rousseau wrote: We did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial, all metal unit, FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom problems. We were also discouraged by the plastic parts on the Racor…which can melt in an engine room fire and leak fuel into the fire. Some insurance companies have taken a position on this issue. We changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours, always found a little water and grunge…and never found anything in our engine fuel filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM can with fuel before refitting… …which made bleeding the air out easier. Always replaced the sealing ring… Best solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top with clean fuel, 2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1. We all know that sitting around is bad for our boats…and our butts. Fargo (missing step 2 right now) Ex F30 #12
Posted by Dwight Escalera (descalera1@…>)
Type A-1 fuel hoses as well as other major components of the fuel system must withstand a 2-1/2 minute direct flame test were the temperature at the hose must reach at least 1200F. While not fireproof this should give you enough time try a quick attack before you abandon ship. Just thinking about it makes me want to go check my extinguishers. Dwight EscaleraF36-71Wakefield, RIOn Dec 1, 2008, at 10:16 AM, Al Lorman wrote:Fuel hoses are required to meet certain heat standards. They’re not fireproof, but they’re a lot better than non-fuel hoses. From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BobSent: Monday, December 01, 2008 10:11 AMTo: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comCc: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:Racor fuel filters/Fram/easy fix…no magnets In that case what about the rubber fuel hoses to and from the tank, rubber or plastic you are in trouble…if you have a fire most likely a lot of things are going south! BobOn Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Fargo Rousseau wrote: We did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial, all metal unit, FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom problems. We were also discouraged by the plastic parts on the Racor…which can melt in an engine room fire and leak fuel into the fire. Some insurance companies have taken a position on this issue. We changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours, always found a little water and grunge…and never found anything in our engine fuel filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM can with fuel before refitting… …which made bleeding the air out easier. Always replaced the sealing ring… Best solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top with clean fuel, 2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1. We all know that sitting around is bad for our boats…and our butts. Fargo (missing step 2 right now)Ex F30 #12
Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)
Since the constant volume adiabatic flame temperature of diesel is
somewhere around 1950 degrees CENTIGRADE (3,542 degrees F), a two
minute test at 1200 is not particularly comforting.
Simply put, diesel in open room air achieving complete combustion is
putting off a flame temperature of 3,542 degrees. This is all
theoretical, mind you, and the temperature (due to heat transfer to
cooler objects) is usually a lot less, but it can be more in certain
situations.
That being said, the flash point of diesel fuel is around 410 degrees
Fahrenheit, and the fuel in the hose in the area of immediate flame
impingement will be vaporized (and feeding the fire from some other
point) before the hose gives out.
Your best fire suppression approach is going to be a fixed system
that can be discharged into the engine compartment without opening
the compartment to admit more oxygen (thus permitting further
combustion). Absent that, introduce the fire extinguisher contents
into the engine compartment via the same route that the make up air
for the engine takes.
If you’ve ever seen anyone open the hood of a car with a
fire “smoldering” in the engine compartment, only to see it burst
into huge flames…you have the idea.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Dwight Escalera
<descalera1@…> wrote:
Type A-1 fuel hoses as well as other major components of the fuel
system must withstand a 2-1/2 minute direct flame test were the
temperature at the hose must reach at least 1200F. While not
fireproof this should give you enough time try a quick attack
before
you abandon ship. Just thinking about it makes me want to go check
my
extinguishers.Dwight Escalera
F36-71
Wakefield, RIOn Dec 1, 2008, at 10:16 AM, Al Lorman wrote:
Fuel hoses are required to meet certain heat standards. They’re
not
fireproof, but they’re a lot better than non-fuel hoses.From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 10:11 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Cc: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:Racor fuel
filters/Fram/easy
fix…no magnetsIn that case what about the rubber fuel hoses to and from the
tank,
rubber or plastic you are in trouble…if you have a fire most
likely a lot of things are going south!Bob
On Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Fargo Rousseau wrote:
We did not change our original F30 fuel filter (an industrial,
all
metal unit, FRAM, I think) to Racor because of headroom
problems.
We were also discouraged by the plastic parts on the
Racor…which
can melt in an engine room fire and leak fuel into the fire.
Some
insurance companies have taken a position on this issue.We changed the cheap paper filter cartridge every 100 hours,
always
found a little water and grunge…and never found anything in
our
engine fuel filter…which is a good thing. We filled the FRAM
can
with fuel before refitting… …which made bleeding the air out
easier. Always replaced the sealing ring…Best solutions to fuel and tank problems: 1) Fill tank to top
with
clean fuel, 2) Use boat often, 3) Repeat step 1.We all know that sitting around is bad for our boats…and
our
butts.Fargo (missing step 2 right now)
Ex F30 #12