Re: Re: Top O'' The Mast - Blue Merle''s setup

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1

Posted by j32080@…> (j32080@…>)

Hi,

This is John Gedaminski, former owner of “Blue Merle” (#259 - 1984)

The top of the mast, in the early years, is covered by a black plastic
(soft) cap.

I used a SS navigation light bracket from either Hella or Aqual Signal
to mount the anchor light and Windex. The bracket attachement to the
mast was through-bolted. I curved the flat washers on the inside to
match the inside of the mast. The Metz VHF antenna was through-bolted
with the light bracket - I may have drilled matching holes in the light
bracket.

The black on the VHF connection is “liquid tape”.

Things have changed quite a bit since I did it (1995).

Today, I’d consider using the Windex that fits over a Metz antenna.
Page 900 in the 2006 West Marine catalog. Or the J-base mount for the
Windex 15 (same page). This allows mounting the Windex bracket on the
side.

Through-bolting is easy as the top of the mast is easilly 4" in
diameter and the cap is easily removed. I secured mine with a SS hose
clamp covered by high-quality electrical tape when everything was done.

For any other info, just shout.

Regards,
-John



— Nick Marino <blueraven1@…> wrote:

First the photo is of John Geedaminski’s F-21 Blue Merle.

It looks like he just used SS self-taping screws to mount the angles.

BUT you have to drill the correct size hole for the size of screw you

use so that it does not damage the mast. He also probably put on some

sealant (like 3M 4200) around the hole and on the screw. Also looks
like he wraped the connector with black electrical tape and applied a

varnish or other sealer to it. Same with the plactic cap. Definetly

looks like a very clean installation.

Nick Marino
Blue Raven, #295

freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “emmylou307” <emmylou307@…> wrote:

Hi - I’ve printed the photo of your mast-top set-up and now I see
that everything is
supported by angles screwed into the CF mast. Any tips on drilling
into/attaching to CF?
I’ve never done it before. I like your idea of a burgee halyard and

will add one of those as

well.

Sean/Vivian Emmylou 307

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Nick Marino” <blueraven1@>
wrote:

Can not say what is on top of your mast but there was a soft
plastic
cap over mine when I bought her.

You can look at Blue Merle,s mast photo in the photo galery of
“F-
21
info” (http://www.freedom21.info./). Note that he also added a
flag
halyard on the side which comes in handy to display burgees.

Otherwise you will have to craft an insert and still fasten it to

the

mast.

Nick Marino
Blue Raven, #295


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2

Posted by emmylou307 (emmylou307@…>)

Hi John - great help!

Refer to: http://www.seanmulligan.com/Stories/Emmylou307

When we had Emmylou’s mast down we saw many problems (though we were relieved
the
mast and spartight came out intact):

  1. The cap at the top was completely gone. We need to improvise a replacement.
    Our local
    rigging yard suggested some rubber roofing membrane held by SS hose clamp.

  2. The steaming light was not working, despite an apparently good bulb. The
    light had
    been wired with household zip cord secured below with wire nuts - not good. I
    think wire
    must be replaced.

  3. There had been “something” attached up high but there was just remanants left
    of the
    (galv.? alum?) angle (see photo 5126). I plan to attach the JBase for windex
    here.

4 Bought a 3’ Antannae at West with angle bracket same as John’s Blue Merle
setup and
plan to mout to another part of masthead where there are already holes (from
what I don’t
know).

5 Got a small extra halyard and cleat for the burgees.

Any suggestions for mounting? Through Bolts? Self-tapping screws? How about pre-
drilling the Carbon Fiber? Can I use regular high-speed steel bits or would
carbide tips
work better? OK to use Locktite or sealant?

I’ve also laid in a supply of silicone sealant, track lubricant and SS screws.

Truck arrives with hull 307 in Stamford at Brewer’s West Wed. afternoon 2/3.
We’re trying
to make sure we have everything on hand to quickly do “top of the mast” work
before the
yard rushes to get us in the water and on our way (via outboard with re-rigging
under way.

Hope to have photos of Emmylou sailing Long Island Sound soon!

Sean & Vivian
Emmylou 307


— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, <j32080@…> wrote:

Hi,

This is John Gedaminski, former owner of “Blue Merle” (#259 - 1984)

The top of the mast, in the early years, is covered by a black plastic
(soft) cap.

I used a SS navigation light bracket from either Hella or Aqual Signal
to mount the anchor light and Windex. The bracket attachement to the
mast was through-bolted. I curved the flat washers on the inside to
match the inside of the mast. The Metz VHF antenna was through-bolted
with the light bracket - I may have drilled matching holes in the light
bracket.

The black on the VHF connection is “liquid tape”.

Things have changed quite a bit since I did it (1995).

Today, I’d consider using the Windex that fits over a Metz antenna.
Page 900 in the 2006 West Marine catalog. Or the J-base mount for the
Windex 15 (same page). This allows mounting the Windex bracket on the
side.

Through-bolting is easy as the top of the mast is easilly 4" in
diameter and the cap is easily removed. I secured mine with a SS hose
clamp covered by high-quality electrical tape when everything was done.

For any other info, just shout.

Regards,
-John

3

Posted by Max Lent (maxlent@…>)

Sean,

Thank you for sharing your experience with Emmylou. I’m going
through the same process of getting my boat, Top Cat, ready to
sail. Your photos and explanations of your process are very helpful
to me.

One of my first experiences was the sticker shock of having work
performed on the boat. Top Cat needed new antifouling paint.
Boatyard price $400-$500. I couldn’t afford it, so I bought some
antifouling paint and applied to the boat while it was on its
trailer. This involved using my car jack using techniques that
would not be insurance company approved to lift the boat off of the
trailer briefly to apply the paint. Total cost $100.

By the way, I recommend the blue 7 day masking tape over the old
beige masking take. Paint seems not to seep through the edges and
it pulls off cleanly.

Like Emmylou, Top Cat also has an angle bracket just hanging onto
the mast with a single screw. Like you, I will have to figure out
what to do about repairing it. I also don’t know what it was used
for.

Top Cat has a broken black ring that is shaped like a D at the top
of the mast that I will have to replace.

Top Cat’s outboard motor is being tuned up and I hope not overhauled
at a local Evinrude service center.

One of my next tasks is to repaint the striping along the hull.
After that I will need to treat the hatchway wood. Any suggestions
on that from you long time owners? Mine looks just like Emmylou’s,
weathered.

Max

http://www.maxlent.com

4

Posted by chris montgomery (freedom.sailingguy@…>)

— In freedom21@yahoogroups.com, “Max Lent” <maxlent@…> wrote:

Max–I assume that the wood trim around your companionway is teak
like mine. The choices for finishing teak are numerous, and they all
have their pros and cons. The traditional finish is varnish. There
are several brands available for exterior finishing. Nothing looks
better than a well done varnish job. The problem is with the well
done aspect. You need to sand down to raw wood if your teak is well
weathered, then you need to apply at least 5 coats scotchbrite
between each coat, and you must maintain the finish (usually two more
coats through the season. If you don’t maintain the finish, the
varnish will crack and peel and you must start all over again.
Another alternative is one of the teak oils. This is relatively
easy to maintain by re-oiling whenever the wood starts to dry out.
The downside of oil is that it attracts dirt, and tends to bleed onto
your gelcoat when it rains. Never-the -less oil does protect the
wood well. Another choice is to just let the wood weather. The only
downside is that eventually even teak will degrade, the grain will
raise, and the wood will split.
I am also refinishing my companionway. I was going to go the
traditional route, but another boat owner and friend recommended
Setol. This product is kind of a compromise but also has
advantages. It paints on like varnish, but doesn’t require
sanding/scotchbrite between coats. It is not so prone to cracking as
varnish, and is a bit easier to apply. Traditionalists hate Setol
because of the orange tint that it imparts to teak, but if I really
find this objectional, I can get out the sand paper and begin
again.
I hope this helps. And remember, whenever you are admiring the
glisening beauty of yachts laden with teak, all that shine comes at
great expense or labor,and time off the water. That is why I so
love the simple but elegant lines of my Freedom 21.

Chris

Sean,

Thank you for sharing your experience with Emmylou. I’m going
through the same process of getting my boat, Top Cat, ready to
sail. Your photos and explanations of your process are very
helpful
to me.

One of my first experiences was the sticker shock of having work
performed on the boat. Top Cat needed new antifouling paint.
Boatyard price $400-$500. I couldn’t afford it, so I bought some
antifouling paint and applied to the boat while it was on its
trailer. This involved using my car jack using techniques that
would not be insurance company approved to lift the boat off of the
trailer briefly to apply the paint. Total cost $100.

By the way, I recommend the blue 7 day masking tape over the old
beige masking take. Paint seems not to seep through the edges and
it pulls off cleanly.

Like Emmylou, Top Cat also has an angle bracket just hanging onto
the mast with a single screw. Like you, I will have to figure out
what to do about repairing it. I also don’t know what it was used
for.

Top Cat has a broken black ring that is shaped like a D at the top
of the mast that I will have to replace.

Top Cat’s outboard motor is being tuned up and I hope not
overhauled
at a local Evinrude service center.

One of my next tasks is to repaint the striping along the hull.
After that I will need to treat the hatchway wood. Any suggestions
on that from you long time owners? Mine looks just like Emmylou’s,
weathered.

Max

http://www.maxlent.com

5

Posted by Max Lent (maxlent@…>)

Chris,

An employee at a local West Marine store also suggested Setol. I
believe it is the way that I am going to go. Thank you for the great
adivice.

Max Lent
Top Cat
http://www.maxlent.com