Repairing holes in a strut

Archives
1

Posted by jamesbrianorr (james.orr@…>)

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair I am
contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull designed
Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of Rochester on Lake
Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in the process of
being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies). In addition, I
also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on the Great
Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now left with 3
holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a new strut
bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I think is
necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some replacement bronze rod,
and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original material they used
for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze, but don’t know
for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the rod type I use
as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that Tillotson might
have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

2

Posted by katorpus (jrb@…>)

Unless the lobster pot cutter bracket was holding the strut together,
then these holes have not significantly weakened the strut, and you
aren’t looking at a structural repair.

Why put anything “hard” in them, in that case?

Get some emery paper on a roll, tear off a length and twist it into
a “thread”, feed it through the hole and clean up the inside, then
squirt 5200 in one side until it comes out the other, wipe it off
smooth, and go to the house.

The 5200 won’t “swell up” and crack the strut, as could occur if you
fill the hole with some “different” metal than the strut was made
from originally, in which case, corrosion of some sort would begin.

I think you’re making this more difficult than it needs to be.

Just my thoughts, however…


— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “jamesbrianorr”
<james.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair I
am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies). In
addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze, but
don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the rod
type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

3

Posted by fredmolden (fredmolden@…>)


I think I would just take a couple of
brass screws and thread them into the holes and grind off the excess. You
might even skip the grind step





From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of katorpus
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 3:32
PM
To:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re:
Repairing holes in a strut




Unless the lobster pot cutter bracket was holding the
strut together,
then these holes have not significantly weakened the strut, and you
aren’t looking at a structural repair.

Why put anything “hard” in them, in that case?

Get some emery paper on a roll, tear off a length and twist it into
a “thread”, feed it through the hole and clean up the inside, then
squirt 5200 in one side until it comes out the other, wipe it off
smooth, and go to the house.

The 5200 won’t “swell up” and crack the strut, as could occur if you
fill the hole with some “different” metal than the strut was made
from originally, in which case, corrosion of some sort would begin.

I think you’re making this more difficult than it needs to be.

Just my thoughts, however…

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“jamesbrianorr”
<james.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair I
am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies). In
addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze, but
don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the rod
type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks


\

4

Posted by Borelmfg (borelmfg@…>)

If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it. What ever you add in the metal department will only increase the odds of electrolysis. Welding or brazing could cause distortion from the heat.
(been there done that, to my surprise). Caulking would be ok

I would say fogetaboutit, go sailing

regards

van

----- Original Message -----
From: jamesbrianorr
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 9:47 AM
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Repairing holes in a strut


Folks,First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair I am contemplating on my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull designed Freedom 32 (1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of Rochester on Lake Ontario) with the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in the process of being replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies). In addition, I also had the engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on the Great Lakes, besides which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now left with 3 holes which went straight through the casting.I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a new strut bearing (or replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I think is necessary). My current thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some replacement bronze rod, and then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original material they used for the casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze, but don’t know for sure, and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the rod type I use as well as the brazing flux and filler material.Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that Tillotson might have been using in the 1988 timeframe?Thanks

5

Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)

What is the strut made of? Metal?

In frsh water, electrolysis is not as much a danger as in salt of brackish
water. However, I would not use brass on anything underhe waterline.

if you feel you must fill them, you could sand it very well all around the holes
and inside them as well, wipe the surfaces with denatured alcohol or acetone,
then fill the holes with Marine-Tex.

It’s great stuff and I highly recommend it for lots of repairs. Been using oit
for years. It is expensive. Don’t get the tiny 3 ounce little kit from West
Marine. Get it (and as much of everything else boat-related as you can) from
Defender or Hamilton Marine. My advice, anyway. As my late friend Bob Gainer
used to say, your mileage may vary.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <james.orr@…> wrote:


\

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair I am
contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull designed
Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of Rochester on Lake
Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in the process
of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies). In addition,
I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on the Great
Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now left with 3
holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a new strut
bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I think is
necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some replacement bronze
rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original material they
used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze, but don’t know
for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the rod type I use
as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that Tillotson might
have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

–

6

Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)

I agree wholeheartedly. Since the holes did not compromise the
strut’s function, filling them with an epoxy-based filler after
sanding the holes to clean them up makes a lot of sense. Herm

At 06:48 PM 3/30/2008, you wrote:

What is the strut made of? Metal?

In frsh water, electrolysis is not as much a danger as in salt of
brackish water. However, I would not use brass on anything underhe waterline.

if you feel you must fill them, you could sand it very well all
around the holes and inside them as well, wipe the surfaces with
denatured alcohol or acetone, then fill the holes with Marine-Tex.

It’s great stuff and I highly recommend it for lots of repairs. Been
using oit for years. It is expensive. Don’t get the tiny 3 ounce
little kit from West Marine. Get it (and as much of everything else
boat-related as you can) from Defender or Hamilton Marine. My
advice, anyway. As my late friend Bob Gainer used to say, your
mileage may vary.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <mailto:james.orr%40mac.comjames.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair
I am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies).
In addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze,
but don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the
rod type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

–

7

Posted by jamesbrianorr (james.orr@…>)

Folks,

Thanks for the feedback. The consensus is that the holes are not a structural
matter
(which I agree with), and the low risk repair is to fill in the holes with a
softer epoxy based
filler, which seems like it should work, and if it doesn’t hold up, another type
of repair can
be be tried next season (Rochester doesn’t really allow keeping a boat in year
round
anyways ;-).

Thanks, Jim

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly. Since the holes did not compromise the
strut’s function, filling them with an epoxy-based filler after
sanding the holes to clean them up makes a lot of sense. Herm

At 06:48 PM 3/30/2008, you wrote:

What is the strut made of? Metal?

In frsh water, electrolysis is not as much a danger as in salt of
brackish water. However, I would not use brass on anything underhe waterline.

if you feel you must fill them, you could sand it very well all
around the holes and inside them as well, wipe the surfaces with
denatured alcohol or acetone, then fill the holes with Marine-Tex.

It’s great stuff and I highly recommend it for lots of repairs. Been
using oit for years. It is expensive. Don’t get the tiny 3 ounce
little kit from West Marine. Get it (and as much of everything else
boat-related as you can) from Defender or Hamilton Marine. My
advice, anyway. As my late friend Bob Gainer used to say, your
mileage may vary.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <mailto:james.orr%40mac.comjames.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair
I am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies).
In addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze,
but don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the
rod type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

–

8

Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)

Marine-Tex ain’t that soft. It’s very strong. I’ve repaired engine blocks with
it. And if the surface is cleaned, sanded and properly prepared, it will stick
to almost anything.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL


---- jamesbrianorr <james.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

Thanks for the feedback. The consensus is that the holes are not a structural
matter
(which I agree with), and the low risk repair is to fill in the holes with a
softer epoxy based
filler, which seems like it should work, and if it doesn’t hold up, another
type of repair can
be be tried next season (Rochester doesn’t really allow keeping a boat in year
round
anyways ;-).

Thanks, Jim

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly. Since the holes did not compromise the
strut’s function, filling them with an epoxy-based filler after
sanding the holes to clean them up makes a lot of sense. Herm

At 06:48 PM 3/30/2008, you wrote:

What is the strut made of? Metal?

In frsh water, electrolysis is not as much a danger as in salt of
brackish water. However, I would not use brass on anything underhe
waterline.

if you feel you must fill them, you could sand it very well all
around the holes and inside them as well, wipe the surfaces with
denatured alcohol or acetone, then fill the holes with Marine-Tex.

It’s great stuff and I highly recommend it for lots of repairs. Been
using oit for years. It is expensive. Don’t get the tiny 3 ounce
little kit from West Marine. Get it (and as much of everything else
boat-related as you can) from Defender or Hamilton Marine. My
advice, anyway. As my late friend Bob Gainer used to say, your
mileage may vary.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <mailto:james.orr%40mac.comjames.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair
I am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies).
In addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze,
but don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the
rod type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

–

9

Posted by James Orr (james.orr@…>)

Steve,

Didn’t mean to imply that the “end result” was soft, only that it
starts out softer then replacement bronze rod. The end result would be
be very similar to the bronze replacement solution.

-Jim

On Mar 31, 2008, at 10:58 AM, sgaber@… wrote:

Marine-Tex ain’t that soft. It’s very strong. I’ve repaired engine
blocks with it. And if the surface is cleaned, sanded and properly
prepared, it will stick to almost anything.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <james.orr@…> wrote:

Folks,

Thanks for the feedback. The consensus is that the holes are not a
structural matter
(which I agree with), and the low risk repair is to fill in the
holes with a softer epoxy based
filler, which seems like it should work, and if it doesn’t hold up,
another type of repair can
be be tried next season (Rochester doesn’t really allow keeping a
boat in year round
anyways ;-).

Thanks, Jim

— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly. Since the holes did not compromise the
strut’s function, filling them with an epoxy-based filler after
sanding the holes to clean them up makes a lot of sense.
Herm

At 06:48 PM 3/30/2008, you wrote:

What is the strut made of? Metal?

In frsh water, electrolysis is not as much a danger as in salt of
brackish water. However, I would not use brass on anything
underhe waterline.

if you feel you must fill them, you could sand it very well all
around the holes and inside them as well, wipe the surfaces with
denatured alcohol or acetone, then fill the holes with Marine-Tex.

It’s great stuff and I highly recommend it for lots of repairs.
Been
using oit for years. It is expensive. Don’t get the tiny 3 ounce
little kit from West Marine. Get it (and as much of everything else
boat-related as you can) from Defender or Hamilton Marine. My
advice, anyway. As my late friend Bob Gainer used to say, your
mileage may vary.

Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL

---- jamesbrianorr <mailto:james.orr%40mac.comjames.orr@…>
wrote:

Folks,

First posting, but was hoping someone had some ideas re: a repair
I am contemplating on
my shaft strut before it goes back in the water. I’ve got a Mull
designed Freedom 32
(1988) (acquired just under 2 years ago for sailing out of
Rochester on Lake Ontario) with
the Yanmar 2GM. It is currently on the hard, and the shaft is in
the process of being
replaced (along with some other drive train related assemblies).
In addition, I also had the
engine folks remove the lobster pot cutter (not many of those on
the Great Lakes, besides
which it was going to need some repair work as well), but am now
left with 3 holes which
went straight through the casting.

I am going to need to do something to fill them in before I fit a
new strut bearing (or
replace the strut – which I really don’t want to do, nor do I
think is necessary). My current
thought would be to clean the holes up and braze in some
replacement bronze rod, and
then fair as appropriate. One of the unknowns is the original
material they used for the
casting. I am guessing it might be silicon or manganese bronze,
but don’t know for sure,
and for that matter, would it make much of a difference re: the
rod type I use as well as
the brazing flux and filler material.

Does anyone have any detailed information on the struts that
Tillotson might have been
using in the 1988 timeframe?

Thanks

–

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