Posted by cpamba (dalligood@…>)
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a question: what
should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about 1" larger than
the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat screws and some type
of
sealant/caulk.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)
I need to replace my windows as well and am waiting until the
end of the rainy season (July).
Any help or suggestions would be great so I don’t have to
re-invent the wheel when doing it myself.
Questions
What material are you going to use to replace them?
Where are you getting it? How are you dealing with the
edges and holes?
Thanks and good luck!
Scott
Freedom 32 (Hoyt 1985)
Girlfriend
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cpamba
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:07 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 – need
help!
\
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a question: what
should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about 1" larger
than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat screws and some type
of
sealant/caulk.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
\
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Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily residue that is very
diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint over.
I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is paintable. You could
also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.
IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- cpamba <dalligood@…> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a question:
what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about 1" larger than
the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat screws and some
type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters what
they think of silicone…
as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of forbidden
substances.
Michel Capel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, <sgaber@…> wrote:
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@…> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
Posted by Mark Thompson (methomp@…>)
I have not done this myself. But I did spend some time researching
this project for my F30. I was told that if you are going to go the
the trouble and expense to replace the windows do it right. That
means use Tempered Glass - glew products glass to aluminum adhesive.
Freedom was fond of 5200… but you know the good & bad with that
stuff. Maybe 4200?
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:
I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters what
they think of silicone…as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of forbidden
substances.Michel Capel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, <sgaber@> wrote:
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily
residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have
a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)
GE
makes many products for structurally attaching plastic and glass windows to
frames; they are used in office buildings. Most of the common sealants
used on boats will attack plastic windows. I used a GE product (don’t
remember which) to attach/seal new acrylic in the hatch of my former F30.
Al
Lorman
P.S.
I think silicone sealants get a bad rad. The only problem with them is that
they adhere sp tenaciously that they make it hard to paint the surface.
When most of our boats were built, repainting fiberglass was less common so
there was no reason not to use silicone. When I replaced and/or rebedded most
of the hardware on Ab Initio, I found that Freedom had used silicone as a
sealant and that 20 odd years later, it was still working despite the fact that
Freedom did not protect the core where it drilled holes.
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Mark Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:11 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 –
need help!
\
I have not done this myself. But I did spend
some time researching
this project for my F30. I was told that if you are going to go the
the trouble and expense to replace the windows do it right. That
means use Tempered Glass - glew products glass to aluminum adhesive.
Freedom was fond of 5200… but you know the good & bad with that
stuff. Maybe 4200?
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:
I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters what
they think of silicone…as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of forbidden
substances.Michel Capel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
<sgaber@> wrote:If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily
residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have
a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
\
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
I have good experience with Bostik, a tape shaped gasket material
from Sweden. It is like old fashioned window glass putty, but it
does not harden or shrink. I did all my deck hardware and hatches
with Bostik two years ago after my boat was spray painted and I have
no leaks. Bostik does not glue, so it only works for gear that is
screw mounted.
michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “Mark Thompson”
<methomp@…> wrote:
I have not done this myself. But I did spend some time researching
this project for my F30. I was told that if you are going to go
the
the trouble and expense to replace the windows do it right. That
means use Tempered Glass - glew products glass to aluminum
adhesive.
Freedom was fond of 5200… but you know the good & bad with that
stuff. Maybe 4200?— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “michel.capel”
<michel.capel@> wrote:I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters
what
they think of silicone…as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of
forbidden
substances.Michel Capel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, <sgaber@> wrote:
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily
residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and
have
a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all
about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
When I put new glazing in my Bomar foredeck hatch on my Mull 28
Freedom, they sold me a tube of GE Ultraglaze Structural Glazing
Sealant SSG4000. This is an Acrylic to aluminum frame joint, and
seems to work satisfactorily. Herm
At 11:26 AM 6/24/2008, you wrote:
GE makes many products for structurally attaching plastic and glass
windows to frames; they are used in office buildings. Most of the
common sealants used on boats will attack plastic windows. I used a
GE product (don’t remember which) to attach/seal new acrylic in the
hatch of my former F30.Al Lorman
P.S. I think silicone sealants get a bad rad. The only problem with
them is that they adhere sp tenaciously that they make it hard to
paint the surface. When most of our boats were built, repainting
fiberglass was less common so there was no reason not to use
silicone. When I replaced and/or rebedded most of the hardware on
Ab Initio, I found that Freedom had used silicone as a sealant and
that 20 odd years later, it was still working despite the fact that
Freedom did not protect the core where it drilled holes.From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:11 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 –
need help!I have not done this myself. But I did spend some time researching
this project for my F30. I was told that if you are going to go the
the trouble and expense to replace the windows do it right. That
means use Tempered Glass - glew products glass to aluminum adhesive.
Freedom was fond of 5200… but you know the good & bad with that
stuff. Maybe 4200?— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters what
they think of silicone…as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of forbidden
substances.Michel Capel
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
<sgaber@> wrote:
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily
residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have
a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
Posted by Al Lorman (ajl@…>)
Bomar
charges $32 a tube. You can buy GE Silpruf SCS2000 for about $15 online.
Al
Lorman
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Herman and Gail
Schiller
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 2:39 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 –
need help!
\
When I put new glazing in my Bomar foredeck
hatch on my Mull 28
Freedom, they sold me a tube of GE Ultraglaze Structural Glazing
Sealant SSG4000. This is an Acrylic to aluminum frame joint, and
seems to work satisfactorily. Herm
At 11:26 AM 6/24/2008, you wrote:
GE makes many products for structurally attaching plastic and glass
windows to frames; they are used in office buildings. Most of the
common sealants used on boats will attack plastic windows. I used a
GE product (don’t remember which) to attach/seal new acrylic in the
hatch of my former F30.Al Lorman
P.S. I think silicone sealants get a bad rad. The only problem with
them is that they adhere sp tenaciously that they make it hard to
paint the surface. When most of our boats were built, repainting
fiberglass was less common so there was no reason not to use
silicone. When I replaced and/or rebedded most of the hardware on
Ab Initio, I found that Freedom had used silicone as a sealant and
that 20 odd years later, it was still working despite the fact that
Freedom did not protect the core where it drilled holes.
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mark Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:11 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Re: Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 –
need help!I have not done this myself. But I did spend some time researching
this project for my F30. I was told that if you are going to go the
the trouble and expense to replace the windows do it right. That
means use Tempered Glass - glew products glass to aluminum adhesive.
Freedom was fond of 5200… but you know the good & bad with that
stuff. Maybe 4200?— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
“michel.capel”
<michel.capel@…> wrote:I concur with Steve. Just ask a few professional yachtpainters what
they think of silicone…as far as I’m concerned, silicone is okay to keep fishies behind
their glass. On my boat silocone caulk is on the list of forbidden
substances.Michel Capel
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
<sgaber@> wrote:
If I were you, i wouldn’t use silicone. It leaves an oily
residue
that is very diifficult to remove and almost impossible to paint
over.I’d use 3M 4200. It holds very well, sands well and is
paintable. You could also use SIkaflex or Lifecaulk.IMHO.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- cpamba <dalligood@> wrote:
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and
have
a
question: what should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all
about
1" larger than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat
screws and some type of
sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
–
\
Posted by Scott Forgey (jsforgey@…>)
Jeff,
What type of window material will be using? How are you
cutting it or making the pattern?
Any thoughts. I am doing mine later this summer.
Thanks.
Scott
Freedom 32 Girlfriend
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only
what’s missing!”
W. Erhard
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cpamba
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:07 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 – need
help!
\
Hello–
I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a question: what
should I
use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about 1" larger
than the opening (all
the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat screws and some type
of
sealant/caulk.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Jeff
\
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 9:27
AM
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.3/1524 - Release Date: 6/28/2008 7:42 PM
Posted by Sailor (ketch_sailor@…>)
We used Sikaflex295UV with good results.
It is important to use the appropriate primer and a professional grade caulking gun with sufficient mechanical advantage to control the very viscous Sikaflex.
Two or three clear vinyl suction cups (the kind with levers to increase the suction) on each window helped position the window with a minimum mess.
The technical folks at Sika Marine Division are very helpful.
The stuff is very MESSY, especially at the point when the masking tape comes off and the stuff is still wet.
Rick Wright
s/v ANNIE
Davis Creek, MD— On Sun, 6/22/08, Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…> wrote:
From: Scott Forgey <jsforgey@…>Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 – need help!To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.comDate: Sunday, June 22, 2008, 4:34 PM
I need to replace my windows as well and am waiting until the end of the rainy season (July).
Any help or suggestions would be great so I don¢t have to re-invent the wheel when doing it myself.
Questions
What material are you going to use to replace them?
Where are you getting it? How are you dealing with the edges and holes?
Thanks and good luck!
Scott
Freedom 32 (Hoyt 1985)
Girlfriend
Scott Forgey
21362 Summertrace Circle
Boca Raton, FL 33428
561.445.5179
skype: sforgey1
“Nothing is ever wrong in the universe, there is only what¢s missing!”
W. Erhard
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:FreedomOwne rsGroup@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of cpambaSent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:07 PMTo: FreedomOwnersGroup@ yahoogroups. comSubject: [FreedomOwnersGroup ] Replacing Windows on Freedom 32 – need help!
Hello–I am replacing all six windows on my 1985 Freedom 32, and have a question: what should I use as a sealant? In other words, these windows are all about 1" larger than the opening (all the way around) and they are affixed to the boat with boat screws and some type of sealant/caulk.Any suggestions?Thanks!!Jeff
No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 9:27 AM
No virus found in this outgoing message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 9:27 AM
Posted by ron barr (rwhb@…>)
I’ll be very interested to
hear how the port replacement goes! I understand that they may have been put in
with 5200 – it took me half a day of total frustration just to get one
Hatteras port out that was installed the same way. A project I never plan to
repeat!!
Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
There is a product for softening and removing 3M
5200. This has got to be the answer for reducing
removals to the level of conventional sealants. Herm
At 09:30 AM 7/2/2008, you wrote:
I’ll be very interested to hear how the port
replacement goes! I understand that they may
have been put in with 5200 – it took me half a
day of total frustration just to get one
Hatteras port out that was installed the same
way. A project I never plan to repeat!!Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)
There is a solvent specifically designed to facilitate removal of gear bedded
with 5200. I forget what it’s called, but you could probably do a google search
for it.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- ron barr <rwhb@…> wrote:
I’ll be very interested to hear how the port replacement goes! I understand
that they may have been put in with 5200 - it took me half a day of total
frustration just to get one Hatteras port out that was installed the same
way. A project I never plan to repeat!!Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
–
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
The solvent may not work well under larger surfaces glued with 5200.
You still have to remove the hardware first. A trick I used
successfully on six deckhatches and two mast collars is using a thin
wire, I used a guitar string, and pull it between hardware and deck.
If you heat the wire with a blowtorch, it goes like through butter.
After removal of the hardware, the solvent will probably work to
remove the remains of the 5200. I didn’t have the solvent, so I had
to use a paint scraper and sanding machine to get rid of the 5200. I
mounted the hardware with Bostik mastik, which does not glue or
harden, just make a watertight seal. For applications with screws or
bolts that hold the hardware, a glueing caulk is not strictly
necessary, I feel.
Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, <sgaber@…> wrote:
There is a solvent specifically designed to facilitate removal of
gear bedded with 5200. I forget what it’s called, but you could
probably do a google search for it.Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- ron barr <rwhb@…> wrote:
I’ll be very interested to hear how the port replacement goes! I
understand
that they may have been put in with 5200 - it took me half a day
of total
frustration just to get one Hatteras port out that was
installed the same
way. A project I never plan to repeat!!Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
–
Posted by Peter Schaefer (pcschaefer@…>)
Better yet: heat the wire by an electric current.
They use this method to cut out wing profiles for model airplanes from
Styrofoam blocks.
Google for " hot wire cutting"!
Peter
michel.capel wrote:
The solvent may not work well under larger surfaces glued with 5200.
You still have to remove the hardware first. A trick I used
successfully on six deckhatches and two mast collars is using a thin
wire, I used a guitar string, and pull it between hardware and deck.
If you heat the wire with a blowtorch, it goes like through butter.
…
Michel
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
What a smart idea! I had to stop cutting every half minute to heat
the wire again.
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Peter Schaefer
<pcschaefer@…> wrote:
Better yet: heat the wire by an electric current.
They use this method to cut out wing profiles for model airplanes
from
Styrofoam blocks.
Google for " hot wire cutting"!Peter
michel.capel wrote:
The solvent may not work well under larger surfaces glued with
You still have to remove the hardware first. A trick I used
successfully on six deckhatches and two mast collars is using a
thin
wire, I used a guitar string, and pull it between hardware and
deck.
If you heat the wire with a blowtorch, it goes like through
butter.
…
Michel
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
www.marineformula.com is worth a look. They developed Debond 2000
which is one of the products that loosen 3M
5200. Herm
At 11:16 PM 7/2/2008, you wrote:
There is a solvent specifically designed to facilitate removal of
gear bedded with 5200. I forget what it’s called, but you could
probably do a google search for it.Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- ron barr <mailto:rwhb%40msn.comrwhb@…> wrote:
I’ll be very interested to hear how the port replacement goes! I understand
that they may have been put in with 5200 - it took me half a day of total
frustration just to get one Hatteras port out that was installed the same
way. A project I never plan to repeat!!Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
–
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
The guitar wire technique is a well-established technique use by
automotive glass repairers, where windshields and other fixed glass
are now glued to the metal car body. Herm
At 03:46 AM 7/3/2008, you wrote:
The solvent may not work well under larger surfaces glued with 5200.
You still have to remove the hardware first. A trick I used
successfully on six deckhatches and two mast collars is using a thin
wire, I used a guitar string, and pull it between hardware and deck.
If you heat the wire with a blowtorch, it goes like through butter.After removal of the hardware, the solvent will probably work to
remove the remains of the 5200. I didn’t have the solvent, so I had
to use a paint scraper and sanding machine to get rid of the 5200. I
mounted the hardware with Bostik mastik, which does not glue or
harden, just make a watertight seal. For applications with screws or
bolts that hold the hardware, a glueing caulk is not strictly
necessary, I feel.Michel
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
<sgaber@…> wrote:There is a solvent specifically designed to facilitate removal of
gear bedded with 5200. I forget what it’s called, but you could
probably do a google search for it.Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- ron barr <rwhb@…> wrote:
I’ll be very interested to hear how the port replacement goes! I
understand
that they may have been put in with 5200 - it took me half a day
of total
frustration just to get one Hatteras port out that was
installed the same
way. A project I never plan to repeat!!Ron
Hoyt F32
Newport RI
–
Posted by mbb05055 (mary.bigelow@…>)
Oh, I do hope you succeed where I failed.
I badly wanted to remove the fixed ports in F-30 to re-glaze them. I
did get one port out with only moderate damage using “Antibond” and
judicious and persistent prying. It then became apparent that I was
not going to be able to get the glazing out of the frame
using “Antibond” and a utility knife. The glazing is set in an L shaped
channel so there is no way to get a wire through. The “Antibond” really
did not seem to have much effect on what is probably 5200
My attempt at getting a second port out of the boat was when I
decided to call it quits. In fact the interior hardware ring just
wanted to bend like a pretzel and the adjacent plywod was shredding.
I still want to get rid or that smokey grey glazing! So I will watch
this thread closely…
Mary
F-30 Corydora
Belfast ME