I have a F25 1982 wing mast and I need a detailed drawing on placements of lines some of mine have been altered and removed. Sailed it for first time last week.We need some help on getting all lines correct.I saw the pdf in another post that helped but I need a little more detailed info.
Go to Documentation and Photos section of this forum, then Manuals and Documentation. The F25 manual can be downloaded from there. There should be diagrams of all the rigging.
wts lines do u need help with? and tell us about ur first sail!
I have sailed it twice now. The first time out under sail was a experience we looked like we had no idea what we were doing (I have never sailed my last boat was 36" with 2 v8 engines), my friend helping had a 30 ft Catalina.The wing mast is something to learn. Seconed time went much better.
We are only using the main sail till we get it learned.
My spinnaker halyard, traveler STBD & PORT, main sheet seems to be correct.
The main halyard does not line up with the JAM CLEAT.
Both reef lines are cut and knots tied on both ends.
Both backstays seem correct but have no shockcords.
There lazy jack seem correct but there is only 1 cleat (the rear one).
I have some other lines on main boom but I not sure they are correct not on the pdf.
Also the 'mast tiller" not sure what this is. The mast seemed to over rotate from side to side. I guess that is the "mast control lines that I seem to not have set up.
I have a Hall Spar main boom I took photo of my question points.
The main halyard is put into the jamb cleat on the mast for light-air sailing. This alleviates the mast failing to “tack” when air isn’t heavy enough to get the desired action.
Be prepared to change out the shockcord often; it doesn’t like sunlight.
The lazy jacks only need one cleat for adjustment. The lazy jacks self-adjust through the blocks and the bullseye.
You MUST set up the line on the mast rotation limiter (mast tiller) post-haste. When the mast over-rotates, it binds on the bullseyes that route the reefing lines. Binding on them will break something, perhaps the gooseneck. Set up the rotation limiter line so that the mast surface and the leeward side of the sail make a nice fair curve for the air to follow.
Photo of the rigging does this look correct?
You need to go to a plumbing supply house, and buy a 6" copper-to-clay pipe/cast iron “Fernco” fitting. You’ll find that this is an ideal mast boot for a rotating mast.
To support the spinnaker pole, Forespar has a rubber item ( see Defender catalog for “Stanchion-mounted pole chock”) that can be fixed to the lifeline stanchion.
A short piece of 3/8" dacron line goes between the clam cleat on the boom and the mast tiller (stopper knot at mast tiller).
You need to rig the lazy jacks by putting the line through the hollow cleat base, up through the small block (on the wires on the mast), down to the bullseye fitting, on the other side of the boom back up to the other small block, and then back to the horn cleat on the underside of the boom. Adjust as needed.
You need new reefing lines. Pull them through using the existing one that are knotted at both ends. If need be, consult the typical Harken single-line reefing setup for guidance.
I don’t see the mainsail clew slide (Sailrite # 23315) or clew outhaul shackle. This may be due to picture’s lighting be wrong.
Thanks you hxschiller that info was very helpful we sailed for 4 hours today.
The lazy jacks worked perfect.
The mast tiller worked perfect mast did not over rotate once.
Shockcord on backstays was a big help.
The outhaul line where goes thru the boom does not look correct first pic something is missing line should not be against the sharp edge of boom.
And the schackel in the 2ed and next to last pic what connect to it?
There should be a turning block located inside the boom forward of where the outhaul line exits the boom. You need to get a flashlight and look inside your boom to see if the block is there, or if you have to replace it. The outhaul should exit the boom heading aft, and almost horizontally.
The only thing I have ever seen the shackel on the aft end of the boom used for is to attach the mainsheet for use as a topping lift. If the boat is going to be sitting for a long time, or if you are at anchor, this takes the strain off of the lazyjacks and also allows you to raise the aft end of the boom for more headroom in the cockpit.
Having just cleaned a major bird’s nest mess out of the inside of my boom, I had a chance to investigate for the first time how the outhaul was rigged. See the attached sketch. It’s a bit like the 5:1 arrangement shown in the Harken catalog, but it’s only 4:1. I have assumed this was the original rig. The previous owner had not been using the smaller (interior) sheaves, so it was only 2:1. I did not find this to be enough. Be sure to leave a rag or something in the end of the boom when you leave the boat, if you want to avoid stowaway birds!
F25 Outhaul.pdf (25.5 KB)
Like you show in a couple of your pictures (“mid-boom” and “fwd”) I have two jamb cleats on the bottom of my boom: one is ahead of the bail that the vang uses, and one is abaft it. Like you show, I have used the aft one for cleating the outhaul. Does anyone know what the other one is for? I suppose you could use it for tidying up the bitter end of the vang, or maybe for a cunningham? Or maybe this is something for the mast tiller on the wing-mast boats (mine is round mast).
It’s for the mast control line on the wing mast rig. There’s a hole in the mast tiller (appendage that extends under the boom). My F25 was rigged so a line threaded up through that hole with a stopper underneath, then to the cleat on the boom. The line kept breaking where it turned coming up out of the mast tiller, so I got a big shackle, threaded the shackle pin through the hole in the mast tiller, tied the control line to the shackle and led it up to the cleat on the boom. Cleat the line so that the mast can’t rotate far enough, relative to the boom, to touch the fairleads at the forward end of the boom for the reefing lines.
I’ve owned this exact boat for 15 years. One of the most important changes I made was to install a rope clutch on the winged mast for the main halyard. This removes the tension that restricts the pivoting movement. Another change I made was removing the plastic luff tract and installed a Harken Track with the cars fasteded at the battens. I refinished the mast with crolar primer and emron and then fasted the new harken tract. If you need help on the spinnaker rigging - 2 lines for the pole extenders - 2 lines for the alternate tack and clew - 2 lines for the reins to pivot the pole. I have not found that the boom vang is very useful so I have eliminated it from my rigging.
You can email me at lifestyledesign1@sbcglobal.net
Does anyone know the lengths and diameters of the various lines used to controll the spinnaker and yard? The manual I downloaded shows where the lines run, but not their size and lengths.
My boat came with a jumble of old lines, and I have no idea which is which. I will probably replace most of them as they look ancient. If I’m going to that expense I may as well try and make sure I do it right. At least my spinnaker looks to be virtually new, and the sleeve is in great condition.
send me an email, I’ll reply with chart:
yarrow.thorne@yahoo.com
Why not post it in the Documentation and Photos section so that everyone can access it?
– Geoff
I got the rigging list from Yarrow, but then I found it quite by accident on this forum. Look in Sails and Rigging under the “rigging” thread, and you will find the list there.
I don’t have everything the list calls for to rig my spinnaker, but I did pull enough pieces of correct (or greater!) lenght from the jumble that came with the boat that I should be able to make things work.
Did the extension and retraction functions of the gun mounts ever really work? No matter how hard I pull on the line to extent the yard I can’t get it to budge unless I go up on deck and extend it about 1/3 of the way by hand to get it started. Similarly it will only retract about 2/3 of the way and then won’t move any further. My mount still has one of the original teflon liners in place and I have used the trick suggested elsewhere on this board of using nylon bolts thru the holes in the mounts to create a bearing in the other end.
I am also wondering about the correct method of mounting the spinnaker sleve to the boat. By the way it is sized and cut it is fairly obvious which way the forward end of the sleve should go, so I just threaded some line thru the grommets to hold it in position on the pulpit. Is there a better or “proper” way to do this? There are also 6 lines thru grommets located along the bottom of the sleve. I didn’t see any obvious place to attach them, so I simply fastened them to a lifeline where they weren’t close to a stanchion. Is there some other way of attaching the sleve to the boat. When I left today it was blowing pretty good and the (empty) sleve was flapping around alarmingly in the wind. There are also two fines attached to the after end of the sleve which I simply tied off to a stanchion. I have attached a couple of pictures. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do a better job I would appreciate them. There are no other Freedoms around here that I can look at for clues on how to do my setup.
The other point I am not quite clear on is the retrieval line. I can see that it should run from the cockpit up thru the spinnaker sleve and then attach to the midpoint of the spinnaker, but which side of the spinnaker does it run on? From reading the manual it sounds as if the retrieval line should run up the front side on the spinnaker i.e. if you are standing in the cockpit the line should come up out of the sleve and then disappear from sight behind the spinnaker as it is running up the forward side of the sail.
Do most sailors let their spinnakers live in the sleve for the sailing season, or do they take them out of the sleve, store them in a bag, and put them away between sails?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
my kite sock has 2 stainless clips sewn into the lower side, and their are 2 stainless bulls eyes attached to toe rail. at the mouth the ends fold over the railings and have velco.