Posted by allanjcbs (allanjcbs@…>)
I have a Freedom 35. I need to replace a stanchion base. It is cast
aluminum and has a flying goose or egrett cast into it. Anybody know
who makes it.
al
Posted by Bob Weeks (rweeks6508@…>)
Did anyone give you an answer on this
question? I finding the SS and aluminum reaction is eating away at the
aluminum toe rail. Any hints on how to fix this without replacing the toe
rail? The problem is only in four small areas.
Bob
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of allanjcbs
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 10:00
AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Stanchion Base
I have a Freedom 35. I need to replace a stanchion
base. It is cast
aluminum and has a flying goose or egrett cast into it. Anybody know
who makes it.
al
\
Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)
Is there any way to remove the stanchion bases from the toe rail? then you could
mount new stanchions through the deck. If you do that, you will, as I did on my
old Columbia, have to remove the balsa in the deck core and replace it with
epoxy and fiberglass. When I bought my boat, maintenance re-caulking of deck
fittings such as the stanchion bases had been lalcking. As a result, the deck
core had gotten wet in several places. I removed all the wet balsa, replaced it
with multiple layers of glass and buit the areas where I re-mounted the
stanchions into 1 " thick epoxy/glass laminate, using large backing plates.
I also used the same technique to install hardware (two winches, standup blocks,
deck organizers and rope cluutches) to lead all the sail-control lines back to
the cocklpit. Now I can raisel reef and lower the sails without leaving the
cockpit (except to remove the sail cover, sail ties and shackle the halyard to
the mainsail).
You could lift the boat from any of those hard points I made. I don’t know how
difficult that would be on a Freedom, but that is one solution to your problem
of galvanic corrosion between the toe rail and the stanchion bases.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- Bob Weeks <rweeks6508@…> wrote:
Did anyone give you an answer on this question? I finding the SS and
aluminum reaction is eating away at the aluminum toe rail. Any hints on how
to fix this without replacing the toe rail? The problem is only in four
small areas.Bob
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of allanjcbs
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 10:00 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Stanchion BaseI have a Freedom 35. I need to replace a stanchion base. It is cast
aluminum and has a flying goose or egrett cast into it. Anybody know
who makes it.al
–
Posted by michel.capel (michel.capel@…>)
I had to replace all my stanchion bases and stanchions and the
pushpit. (F44 with hurricane damage). I had to drill out most of the
bolts holding the bases to the toe rail. On some points, mainly
amidships where water stands in the toe rail, the inside of the toe
rails was coroded. We used Goiot stanchion bases because they had
the best model to drill extra holes. The predrilled holes didn’t
match the three holes in the toerail, which we wanted to re-use. The
corrosion was not so bad that we could not re-use the holes,
although we had to use thicker bolts. We insulated the bolts with
paste and nylon washers and we insulated the stanchions with pieces
of transparent hose (supplied with the new bases).
I would not be fond of stanchions going into my deck, not even with
backing plates laminated in. This would almost certainly lead to
leaks because stanchions are often treated unkindly. The bending
moment is normally taken up by the toerail which has large bolts
going through the hull-deck joint. When going into the deck, the
bending moment has to be taken up by the top of the deck laminate
which is not made for that.
Anyway, I think it’s easiest to reuse the existing toe rail, even
when it’s corroded.
Michel
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, <sgaber@…> wrote:
Is there any way to remove the stanchion bases from the toe rail?
then you could mount new stanchions through the deck. If you do
that, you will, as I did on my old Columbia, have to remove the
balsa in the deck core and replace it with epoxy and fiberglass.
When I bought my boat, maintenance re-caulking of deck fittings such
as the stanchion bases had been lalcking. As a result, the deck core
had gotten wet in several places. I removed all the wet balsa,
replaced it with multiple layers of glass and buit the areas where I
re-mounted the stanchions into 1 " thick epoxy/glass laminate, using
large backing plates.I also used the same technique to install hardware (two winches,
standup blocks, deck organizers and rope cluutches) to lead all the
sail-control lines back to the cocklpit. Now I can raisel reef and
lower the sails without leaving the cockpit (except to remove the
sail cover, sail ties and shackle the halyard to the mainsail).You could lift the boat from any of those hard points I made. I
don’t know how difficult that would be on a Freedom, but that is one
solution to your problem of galvanic corrosion between the toe rail
and the stanchion bases.Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- Bob Weeks <rweeks6508@…> wrote:
Did anyone give you an answer on this question? I finding the
SS and
aluminum reaction is eating away at the aluminum toe rail. Any
hints on how
to fix this without replacing the toe rail? The problem is only
in four
small areas.Bob
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
allanjcbs
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 10:00 AM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Stanchion BaseI have a Freedom 35. I need to replace a stanchion base. It is
cast
aluminum and has a flying goose or egrett cast into it. Anybody
know
who makes it.al
–