Posted by seychellois_lib (seychellois_lib@…>)
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have explored every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square inch of her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a voyage of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass vessel hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I had heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who mentioned the use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my mind, that makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and the board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The good news is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is that it does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my fingers on it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my fingers on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the seal is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time that it does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the shaft seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when there is a lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk fitting lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent through there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to function as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by svbagatelle (svbagatelle@…>)
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the Syntron seal twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30. It certainly does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings within the seal grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence the ability to get
water to flow out through the vents when the allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting solvent down the
vents would be when your boat is in the water, however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out. But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC) destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement necessary. So here, you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or two, then flush it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it dribbles out where the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have explored every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square inch of her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who mentioned the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my mind, that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The good news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is that it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my fingers on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my fingers on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the seal is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time that it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the shaft seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when there is a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to function as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to grease the seal, not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft. FMC quoted me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace it. I still would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS Vented Shaft Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not scored, you might want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with a modern dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the Syntron seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30. It certainly does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings within the seal grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence the ability to get
water to flow out through the vents when the allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting solvent down the
vents would be when your boat is in the water, however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out. But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC) destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement necessary. So here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or two, then flush it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it dribbles out where the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square inch of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who mentioned the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my mind, that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is that it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my fingers on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time that it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when there is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to function as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
correct link http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011” <macks04@o…>
wrote:
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to grease the seal,
not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft. FMC quoted me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace it. I still
would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS Vented Shaft Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not scored, you might
want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with a modern
dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the Syntron seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30. It certainly
does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings within the seal
grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence the ability to get
water to flow out through the vents when the allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting solvent down the
vents would be when your boat is in the water, however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out. But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC) destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement necessary. So here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or two, then flush
it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it dribbles out where
the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square inch
of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who mentioned
the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my mind,
that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is that
it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine
compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my
fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my fingers
on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the
seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time that
it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to
automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when there
is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to function
as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by svbagatelle (svbagatelle@…>)
I assume you do not have a F30. At least on my boat, the PSS will
not fit–there’s not enough room between the shaft log and the
coupling.
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011” <macks04@o…>
wrote:
correct link http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to grease the seal,
not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft. FMC quoted me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace it. I still
would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS Vented Shaft
Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not scored, you might
want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with a modern
dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the Syntron seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30. It certainly
does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings within the seal
grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence the ability to
get
water to flow out through the vents when the allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting solvent down
the
vents would be when your boat is in the water, however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out. But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC) destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement necessary. So
here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or two, then
flush
it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it dribbles out where
the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square inch
of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass
vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I
had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who mentioned
the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my mind,
that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and
the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is that
it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine
compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my
fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my
fingers
on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the
seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time that
it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to
automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the
shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when there
is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent
through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to
function
as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
I have a F36 and yes, it was a very tight fit, but if you have
6.25"between the hull aft of the shaft log and the shaft coupling,
you can do it. Also, the std. Yanmar shaft coupling can be changed
out for a narrower one which will give you another .5" to 1.0". Talk
to PSS. their new rubber bellows can be compressed more than their
literature suggests.
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I assume you do not have a F30. At least on my boat, the PSS will
not fit–there’s not enough room between the shaft log and the
coupling.
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:
correct link http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to grease the
seal,
not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft. FMC quoted
me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace it. I still
would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS Vented Shaft
Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not scored, you
might
want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with a modern
dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the Syntron
seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30. It certainly
does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings within the seal
grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence the ability to
get
water to flow out through the vents when the allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting solvent down
the
vents would be when your boat is in the water, however,
unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out. But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC) destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement necessary. So
here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or two, then
flush
it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it dribbles out
where
the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I have
explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched every square
inch
of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot fiberglass
vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding Syntron burping. I
had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster who
mentioned
the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it click in my
mind,
that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both factory and
the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the zerk. The
good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the bad news is
that
it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the engine
compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp. I put my
fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to leave my
fingers
on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron spec. says the
seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from time to time
that
it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is probably due to
automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak through the
shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low speed when
there
is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal. Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some solvent
through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the system to
function
as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Posted by mike cunningham (seychellois_lib@…>)
You know, this actually looks like a good idea. I
like the low tech approach. A simple stuffing box that
you can check and fix without pulling the shaft. Other
than the occasional drip, very much reduced according
to the link, what other disadvantages are there to a
plain old stuffing box? What doe a stuffing box cost
not including install?
Mike
F 30 Jacqueine
— macks011 <macks04@…> wrote:
correct link http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to
grease the seal,
not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft.
FMC quoted me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace
it. I still
would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS
Vented Shaft Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not
scored, you might
want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with
a modern
dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the
Syntron seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30.
It certainly
does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings
within the seal
grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence
the ability to get
water to flow out through the vents when the
allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting
solvent down the
vents would be when your boat is in the water,
however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out.
But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC)
destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement
necessary. So here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or
two, then flush
it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it
dribbles out where
the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I
have explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched
every square inch
of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I
am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot
fiberglass vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding
Syntron burping. I had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster
who mentioned
the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it
click in my mind,
that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both
factory and the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the
zerk. The good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the
bad news is that
it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the
engine
compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp.
I put my
fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to
leave my fingers
on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron
spec. says the
seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from
time to time that
it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is
probably due to
automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak
through the shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low
speed when there
is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal.
Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some
solvent through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the
system to function
as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
\
Yahoo! for Good
Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter
Posted by macks011 (macks04@…>)
Checked out some on-line prices and the Buck Algonquin 1" packing
box goes for around $85.00. check out gotomarine.com,
onlinemarine.com
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, mike cunningham
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
You know, this actually looks like a good idea. I
like the low tech approach. A simple stuffing box that
you can check and fix without pulling the shaft. Other
than the occasional drip, very much reduced according
to the link, what other disadvantages are there to a
plain old stuffing box? What doe a stuffing box cost
not including install?
Mike
F 30 Jacqueine
— macks011 <macks04@o…> wrote:
correct link http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com, “macks011”
<macks04@o…>
wrote:
The previous owner has used the zerk fitting to
grease the seal,
not
bleed it. He ruined the seal and scored the shaft.
FMC quoted me
$350.00 to rebuild the seal and $450.00 to replace
it. I still
would
have had to replace the shaft. I installed a PSS
Vented Shaft Seal
and have had no problems. If the shaft is not
scored, you might
want
to go back to the tried and true stuffing box with
a modern
dripless
packing.http://www.e-marine-
inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“svbagatelle”
<svbagatelle@y…> wrote:
I have had the dubious pleasure of replacing the
Syntron seal
twice
(the second time, just the innards) on my F30.
It certainly
does
lead to the outside world! The carbon rings
within the seal
grip
the shaft, but
there is water circulating around them (hence
the ability to get
water to flow out through the vents when the
allen nuts are
loosened). I don’t know how effective putting
solvent down the
vents would be when your boat is in the water,
however, unless
somehow you inject it under pressure.
Better, I think, to wait until you haul out.
But actually
removing the seal would (I am told by FMC)
destroy the water
tightness of the seal and make replacement
necessary. So here,
you
might just let the solvent soak in for a day or
two, then flush
it
out (making sure to clean up the mess as it
dribbles out where
the
shaft exits the hull).
Paul
F30 Bagatelle
— In freedomyachts2003@yahoogroups.com,
“seychellois_lib”
<seychellois_lib@y…> wrote:
OK, I’ve owned my F30 hull #3 for six years. I
have explored
every
inch of her interior and exterior, touched
every square inch
of
her
wood and glass and fiber and steel and yet I
am still on a
voyage
of
discovery. How many surprises can a 30 foot
fiberglass vessel
hold??
The latest was a posting here regarding
Syntron burping. I had
heard
this before and discounted it. But the poster
who mentioned
the
use of
the zerk fitting for burping just made it
click in my mind,
that
makes
perfect sense!
For all these years and at the advice of both
factory and the
board I
have been greasing the shaft seal through the
zerk. The good
news
is
that the seal is still performing well, the
bad news is that
it
does
get hot. When I am steaming I always visit the
engine
compartment
every hour. One of my checks is Syntron temp.
I put my
fingers
on
it
to check. I can touch it but it’t too hot to
leave my fingers
on,
probably about 150 degrees (btw the Syntron
spec. says the
seal
is
good to 300 degrees F). I also notice from
time to time that
it
does
not heat up. I now realize that this is
probably due to
automatic
burping when a little water is able to sneak
through the shaft
seal
which it does from time to time at very low
speed when there
is
a
lot
of vibration.
Now, what to do. I have grease in the seal.
Does the zerk
fitting
lead
to the outside world? Could I just flush some
solvent through
there to
melt the accumulated grease and allow the
system to function
as
designed?
Anyone have any recommendations?
Yahoo! for Good
Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter