Considering rebuilding my Simpson Lawrence Seawolf windlass on my F38. Alternative would be to upgrade. I think the current windlass has a stuck clutch as I cannot lower rode with chain in the gypsy, but I can power up. I know there are a few websites that talk about rebuild, replacement of bearings, etc.
Anyone rebuild one of these? Anyone done a recent replacement of their windlass? If so, what did you put on the foredeck?
Thanks.
Brien
Although I’m not familiar with that particular model. A stuck clutch is usually 1 to 4 hours of cursing, heat, penetrating oil and patience. There may be a bruised knuckle or two, possibly some exchange of DNA could take place.
I’m going to assume that you have backed the nut off and hit it with a plastic hammer a few times?
I’ll go see if I can find an IPB online somewhere.
George
OK here’s a start.
George
I’m not even sure if this is your windlass model exactly but I see that item number 70 “electrically released brake”. I’d start with that critter. If your’s does not have that, then it looks like an old fashioned friction clutch on the rope gypsy (or “wildcat” depending on who’s naming it). If you loosen that nut at the end the wildcat should be free to move outward slightly. If it doesn’t, give it a whack with something that won’t damage it (maybe a 2x4?). Avoid getting going to the bigger hammer. Use penetrating oil and finesse. Judicious use of heat might be called for but beware of damaging seals or setting the boat on fire.
Patience.
I have an Imptra dealership that used to be worth something but now you can buy Lofrans online for less than I can buy through Imptra… sad but true.
George
I dismantled several windlasses of 20+ years old and rebuilt them. Usually it was the old grease in the clutch parts that has mixed with salt and gone hard. Mere hammering on the shaft or wildcat did not work to get the parts of the clutch separated. Take the wildcat and chainwheel off and pry the clutch parts off each other with a small screwdriver. I never had to replace bearings or shafts; on windlasses, these parts are built for the top loads which are only very seldom reached for only a few seconds. So they’re basically very overbuilt (mechanically). And stainless and bronze are a good couple; I’ve never seen corrosion. The powder coated aluminum housings, that’s another story, corrosion-wise. If the corrosion is only superficial, you could have the house blasted and powder coated. I’m glad I have a vertical axis Maxwell on my current boat; there is only stainless and bronze on it.
Thanks for the thoughts. I have backed off the clutch nut entirely- actually removed it and cannot budge the gypsy even after some blows. Exchange of DNA is imminent I fear. George- The diagram is pretty much what I have on deck and from what I can see, the drum should turn with the clutch nut off. If there are any more thoughts, let me know.
Thanks.
Brien
I have the same windlass as you, and found that as Michel says, the grease gets very sticky. With regular use of the windlass I found that I needed to regrease the clutch every 6 months or so.
As I remember it was fairly easy once I did it the first time. You are part way there if you undo the nut all the way and remove everything on that side till you get to the clutch. It will need a good clean. If you have any problems, let me know, I have a manual around here (no scanner unfortunately, although I could photograph it).
Brien,
If you can’t get it undone, a blowtorch on the gipsy (not the clutch cone) could help. Then a blow with a hammer (metal on metal gives a better shock) should spring the gipsy free from the clutch cone.
Good luck.
Just to be clear, the wildcat on most of these with a chain gypsy and a wildcat, is often just “on” all the time. The clutch only allows the chain gypsy to free wheel. Still the rope gypsy should come off the shaft after the clutch nut is removed. I have on occasion formed a puller thus:
When the line goes taught it imparts a short sharp shock on the gypsy.
The disclaimer is that I’m not very confident of my own advice with just that drawing to go on. So they are the most general of directions and you will have to judge suitability for yourself. One thing to watch out for is the follow through if it comes off easier than you thought! 
SPLASH!
George
Thanks everyone. Will be back on the boat in a couple of days and try all of your suggestions. Will let you know the results.
Brien
Wanted to post this for completeness for the thread. I actually found my manual on the boat for the windlass- Simpson Lawrence Seawolf 520. The exploded diagram is the same as that posted by George and I will scan the manual and upload onto the forum in the near future. Have started the penetrating oil regimen, lots of hammering. We’ll see how it goes.
Thanks again for help. Will update more when I have it apart.
Brien