does anyone know if you need a puller to remove injectors on a 2gm20 motor?
I don’t know the answer but the area Yanmar distributor is Mack Boring and Parts at 508-946-9200. They are very helpful and will easily answer your call.
Mark Edwards, Cape Yachts
I’ve never needed one to pull them.
George
Last December, my 1981 3GMD (same engine less one cylinder and raw water cooled) would not keep running, so I had to pull the injectors to check the compression. Had never done any work on the diesel except change the oil and was a bit nervous but I did not have any problems pulling them out.
Had to take the piping apart from the fuel injector pump and the two nuts over the injectors that hold them in,then gently turned and pulled them out. You will need to replace the gaskets (O ring?) before you put them back in. That,I think, in a nut shell are the main things that I recall. Good luck.
PS Oh yes, then you have to bleed the fuel system!! That, of course, would be another post.
just curious,why was it so hard to bleed the system,from what I have been told it is a fairly simple operation,assemble the system,crack the lines,crank the motor till the fuel comes out and close the lines,starting of course at the fuel pump and working your way to the injectors,as for a “o” ring,there is none,just a plastic washer at the bottom which acts as a seal when you tighten the injector down,does anyone know off hand what the torque is on the hold downs?I really don’t feel like going BACK into the book.
I don’t recall anyone saying it was hard to bleed a 2gm20. I am curious over your last post though. I don’t recall ever seeing any plastic seals for injectors on any of the Yanmar motors I’ve ever worked on. There has always been a copper washer to act as a compression seal and while it’s recommended to replace these each time, it’s not strictly necessary to do so. I have frequently inspected them and re-used them.
Bleeding is dead dog simple but use the lever on the lift pump or some other device until you have bleed up to the injector pump. Then spin the motor until you have a good stream at each injector before tightening the nuts at the injectors. This saves wear and tear on your starter motor and also protects you from hydro-locking your engine from cooling water backing up in the exhaust system. Shutting the seacock is OK but prolonged cranking with that shut down could damage the water pump impeller.
George
Okay I see the controversy,I replaced the “WHOLE” injector as a unit,as far as the compression washers you are refering to ,I replace them ,I never reuse them,I figure for the cost of what,$6.00 for a set of 6 I would rather know that there is a zero chance of having a problem,as far as bleeding,there should not REALLY be a problem if I did’nt go past the lift pump,however ,I will as always do the WHOLE system,to be sure it is done all the way through,I do however hate smelling like diesel fuel for a few days,its like the stuff has legs and finds it way to parts of your clothes you never got it on,and shoes may as well get thrown out cus’ the wife can smell the stuff when you PULL INTO THE DRIVEWAY!!!
Amen to that! There is a “strip at the door” policy in effect whenever I’m working on open fuel systems… heh heh.
George
Just a comment about the gasket, “O” ring I mentioned. I was not sure what Yanmar called them. When I removed the injectors they sort of fell apart and I really did not take a good look at them or even replace them after I got the poor compression readings.
Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the clarification.
yeah,for future reference ,on the bottom of the valve assy. there is a plastic seal that resesmbles a washer,this will either be stuck to the assy. or in the port,they are like $2.00 and MUST be replaced,by my understanding this is what seals the bottom of the injector in the port,make sure they are centered when you put the valve in place,this was a fairly simple clear cut job till it came to bleeding the system,it was a littletough due to the fact that the fuel was like motor oil!,I guess I’ll try to finish it when it warms up a little,I did manage to get it up to the injector output line though!!! On a scale of difficulty I would give this about a 4,just read up on it first and don’t bring your smelly clothes in the house! momma don’t appreciate it!!! Till next time…I’m out,the head is next!
Well,
Keeping in mind that the Yanmar Manual was probably translated by someone who didn’t grow up with English, what they might refer to as a “valve” is what we in America refer to as a “fuel injector”. Possibly in England they are called valves… I’m not sure. The ones I’ve dealt with had copper washers for seals. It’s possible they have changed that. I think if they have been making them out of plastic it’s a bad idea. That’s a place where there is a great deal of heat and pressure and I’m not surprised they are falling apart in some cases if that’s what they have gone to. If I encounter any plastic ones I’m going to go back with copper. The copper ones I have dealt with were easy enough to put back into service. If there is a well stocked Yanmar shop close by, it’s a good idea to replace them. If you are anchored at Conception Island in the Bahamas then you may like to know that they can be re-used. If they are dinged in any way you can actually dress them with some fine sand paper. Sorry if I took anyone off track. If I disagree with the manual, you are probably better off following the manual. I think I’ll be more circumspect about pulling them if I don’t know for sure I have a replacement washer or that there is a copper one in there I can re-use.
I have a couple friends who are Yanmar dealers, I’ll ask them next time we talk about what’s being used there now.
George
I’m not sure we are talking about the same parts,are you refering to the copper washers on the line bolts? yes they are copper,I am talking about the injector assembly,if you disassemblbe the injector nozzle assy,there is a copper washer in there,but if you remove the WHOLE assy., that is where the washer is that I am refering to,most of the time this thing will be “stuck” to the bottom of the nozzle or valve or injector,which ever you prefer,if I can find a picture of the injector I will be able to be more accurate,but anyway… 