Posted by mariemarine19 (mariemarine19@…>)
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a course woven
roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull damage that
was repaired.
Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)
On the F-33 its woven roving. This is
pretty common since the bilge interior doesn’t need the cosmetics of mat
and gelcoat.
Alan
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mariemarine19
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:24
PM
To:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Freedom 32 bilge sump
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is
covered with a course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull damage that
was repaired.
\
Posted by Thomas Wales (twales@…>)
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TW
At 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
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Posted by mariemarine19 (mariemarine19@…>)
I can see the keel bolts and nuts okay. Do you remember if the fiberglass in
the bilge
looked smooth or was there a texture to it like a coarsely woven mat?
Bill
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Wales <twales@…> wrote:
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
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12:33 PM
Posted by Thomas Wales (twales@…>)
Hi Bill,
There is a texture to the interior of the hull, especially
in the bilge. It’s nothing like the exterior, as it was never meant
to be seen. If you suspect prior damage to the bilge area, I think
there would be other evidence. That is an extremely strong section
of the boat as it had to carry the keel. If that area was damaged, I
think you’d see evidence of it in other places as well.
TW
At 05:05 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
I can see the keel bolts and nuts okay. Do you remember if the
fiberglass in the bilge
looked smooth or was there a texture to it like a coarsely woven mat?Bill
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
Thomas Wales <twales@…> wrote:I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
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Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the largest
structural area.
TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.
Herm
\
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
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Posted by mariemarine19 (mariemarine19@…>)
Thank you all for the information and I am glad to hear Freedom used roving in
the bilge
area. I posted a photo of the bilge showing the roving I am concerned about.
Could you
please take a look at the picture and see if it matches what you have in your
bilges?
My insurance company requested an insurance survey and I am having an issue with
the
surveyor. He says the roving is not original and obviously a repair had been
made to the
bilge sump. There is no other apparent damage but I have only had the boat for
5 years
and don’t know her complete history, therefore do not know if he is right or
not. When I
said the roving looked original to me, he said I would have to prove it was
before he would
remove the item from the report. He said he is familiar with J-Boats and they
didn’t have
roving in the bilge therefore Freedoms didn’t have roving in the bilge because
they were
both built by TPI. Of course this is the same surveyor who said the keel
“favors the port
side”. He said he could tell by looking at it. But when measurements were
taken the keel
was off to starboard–by 1/8th INCH!
Any help you could give me in this matter would be very welcome.
Bill
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:
On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the largest
structural area.TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.HermI think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
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3/14/2008 12:33 PM–
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Posted by vtaiariol (borelmfg@…>)
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, “mariemarine19”
<mariemarine19@…> wrote:
Bill,
The pics look about the same as my F36, heavy roving in the bilge
area. From what you have stated, I think you need a new surveyor not
a new boat.
Regards,
Van
Thank you all for the information and I am glad to hear Freedom
used roving in the bilge
area. I posted a photo of the bilge showing the roving I am
concerned about. Could you
please take a look at the picture and see if it matches what you
have in your bilges?My insurance company requested an insurance survey and I am having
an issue with the
surveyor. He says the roving is not original and obviously a
repair had been made to the
bilge sump. There is no other apparent damage but I have only
had the boat for 5 years
and don’t know her complete history, therefore do not know if he
is right or not. When I
said the roving looked original to me, he said I would have to
prove it was before he would
remove the item from the report. He said he is familiar with J-
Boats and they didn’t have
roving in the bilge therefore Freedoms didn’t have roving in the
bilge because they were
both built by TPI. Of course this is the same surveyor who said
the keel “favors the port
side”. He said he could tell by looking at it. But when
measurements were taken the keel
was off to starboard–by 1/8th INCH!Any help you could give me in this matter would be very welcome.
Bill
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail
Schiller
<hschiller2@> wrote:On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside
is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts
staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the
question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the
junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by
T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting
strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully
encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a
row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to
distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the
largest
structural area.TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in
my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.HermI think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water
out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When
you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts
on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to
hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
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Date:
3/14/2008 12:33 PM–
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Date:
3/14/2008 12:33 PM
Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)
Alan:
Do you know if the centerboard and shallow d raft versions of the Freedom 33 had
internal (encapsulated in fiberglass) or external (bolted on) ballast?
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- Alan Kusinitz <akusinitz@…> wrote:
On the F-33 its woven roving. This is pretty common since the bilge interior
doesn’t need the cosmetics of mat and gelcoat.Alan
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mariemarine19
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:24 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Freedom 32 bilge sumpCan anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a course woven
roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull damage
that was repaired.
–
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
It would appear that the surveyor is a BS artist. If the J-Boats he’s
familiar with are the larger even-numbered length (28, 36,…) He
would discover roving in the sumps. The odd-numbered 27, 29,…
probably have roving, but they may have used a layer of matt and
cloth, and then vacuum-bagging which looks smoother than hand-laid
roving. Like I said, if the roving is smooth, and continuous (no
detectable seam showing where he claims it’s not original) and
well-embedded in the resin, he’s full of it. Herm
At 06:41 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Thank you all for the information and I am glad to hear Freedom used
roving in the bilge
area. I posted a photo of the bilge showing the roving I am
concerned about. Could you
please take a look at the picture and see if it matches what you
have in your bilges?My insurance company requested an insurance survey and I am having
an issue with the
surveyor. He says the roving is not original and obviously a repair
had been made to the
bilge sump. There is no other apparent damage but I have only had
the boat for 5 years
and don’t know her complete history, therefore do not know if he is
right or not. When I
said the roving looked original to me, he said I would have to prove
it was before he would
remove the item from the report. He said he is familiar with J-Boats
and they didn’t have
roving in the bilge therefore Freedoms didn’t have roving in the
bilge because they were
both built by TPI. Of course this is the same surveyor who said the
keel “favors the port
side”. He said he could tell by looking at it. But when measurements
were taken the keel
was off to starboard–by 1/8th INCH!Any help you could give me in this matter would be very welcome.
Bill
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the largest
structural area.TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.Herm
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
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3/14/2008 12:33 PM–
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Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1329 - Release Date:
3/14/2008 12:33 PM
Posted by Herman and Gail Schiller (hschiller2@…>)
Bill,
I looked at the picture, and have trouble imagining how this guy
concluded there was a repair. There is a bulkhead (floor?) on the
left of the picture that has roving, and quite neatly done, and
seemingly “original”. On the right side of the picture, there appears
to be a bit of imperfect glass-work in that the edge of the roving is
not fully embedded. You can tell me if there is roving elsewhere
throughout the bilge area under the cabin finish such as in the
engine compartment, and forward under the V-berth. If there is stuff
that looks just like what the picture shows, then I’d challenge the
surveyor, and contact any surveying associations he belongs to with
your specific complaints. I agree with Van. At
07:20 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
,
“mariemarine19”
<mariemarine19@…> wrote:Bill,
The pics look about the same as my F36, heavy roving in the bilge
area. From what you have stated, I think you need a new surveyor not
a new boat.Regards,
Van
Thank you all for the information and I am glad to hear Freedom
used roving in the bilge
area. I posted a photo of the bilge showing the roving I am
concerned about. Could you
please take a look at the picture and see if it matches what you
have in your bilges?My insurance company requested an insurance survey and I am having
an issue with the
surveyor. He says the roving is not original and obviously a
repair had been made to the
bilge sump. There is no other apparent damage but I have only
had the boat for 5 years
and don’t know her complete history, therefore do not know if he
is right or not. When I
said the roving looked original to me, he said I would have to
prove it was before he would
remove the item from the report. He said he is familiar with J-
Boats and they didn’t have
roving in the bilge therefore Freedoms didn’t have roving in the
bilge because they were
both built by TPI. Of course this is the same surveyor who said
the keel “favors the port
side”. He said he could tell by looking at it. But when
measurements were taken the keel
was off to starboard–by 1/8th INCH!Any help you could give me in this matter would be very welcome.
Bill
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com,
Herman and Gail
Schiller<hschiller2@> wrote:
On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside
is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts
staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the
question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the
junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by
T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting
strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully
encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a
row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to
distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the
largest
structural area.TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in
my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.Herm
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water
out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When
you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts
on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to
hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1329 - Release
Date:
3/14/2008 12:33 PM–
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Checked by AVG.
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Date:
3/14/2008 12:33 PM
Posted by mariemarine19 (mariemarine19@…>)
Thank you all for your interest and knowledge of Freedom sailboats. Your
responses have
convinced the surveyor that the roving is original and there was no damage to
the keel or
bilge area and he has changed the report accordingly. What a relief for me,
too, to know
that the boat had not suffered a major accident sometime in the past.
Thanks, Herm, for the info about J Boats using roving in the bilge area… quite
interesting.
The scarey thing is this surveyor came highly recommended as someone very
knowledgeable about sailboats.
Thanks again everyone. Your answers were appreciated.
Bill
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Herman and Gail Schiller
<hschiller2@…> wrote:
Bill,
I looked at the picture, and have trouble imagining how this guy
concluded there was a repair. There is a bulkhead (floor?) on the
left of the picture that has roving, and quite neatly done, and
seemingly “original”. On the right side of the picture, there appears
to be a bit of imperfect glass-work in that the edge of the roving is
not fully embedded. You can tell me if there is roving elsewhere
throughout the bilge area under the cabin finish such as in the
engine compartment, and forward under the V-berth. If there is stuff
that looks just like what the picture shows, then I’d challenge the
surveyor, and contact any surveying associations he belongs to with
your specific complaints. I agree with Van. At
07:20 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogrou
ps.com,“mariemarine19”
<mariemarine19@> wrote:Bill,
The pics look about the same as my F36, heavy roving in the bilge
area. From what you have stated, I think you need a new surveyor not
a new boat.Regards,
Van
Thank you all for the information and I am glad to hear Freedom
used roving in the bilge
area. I posted a photo of the bilge showing the roving I am
concerned about. Could you
please take a look at the picture and see if it matches what you
have in your bilges?My insurance company requested an insurance survey and I am having
an issue with the
surveyor. He says the roving is not original and obviously a
repair had been made to the
bilge sump. There is no other apparent damage but I have only
had the boat for 5 years
and don’t know her complete history, therefore do not know if he
is right or not. When I
said the roving looked original to me, he said I would have to
prove it was before he would
remove the item from the report. He said he is familiar with J-
Boats and they didn’t have
roving in the bilge therefore Freedoms didn’t have roving in the
bilge because they were
both built by TPI. Of course this is the same surveyor who said
the keel “favors the port
side”. He said he could tell by looking at it. But when
measurements were taken the keel
was off to starboard–by 1/8th INCH!Any help you could give me in this matter would be very welcome.
Bill
— In
mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.comFreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroup
s.com,
Herman and Gail
Schiller<hschiller2@> wrote:
On the Freedom boats of that era, they typically had a stub
keel/sump, integral with the hull structure, with the lead keel
bolted to the bottom of it. What you should see from the inside
is a
foil-shaped cavity, with a flattish bottom, and the nuts
staggered
along the bottom of this cavity. If as I understand the
question
you’re looking for keel to hull damage, I’d look along the
junction
between the hull, and the stub keel/sump. The glass work done by
T-P
was good on these hulls, and you shouldn’t see any projecting
strands
of roving or mat anywhere in the bottom of the hull, or the stub
keel. Yes they did use fiberglass roving in this area (thank
goodness), and didn’t work very hard to conceal its presence.
However, the roving should be smoothly laid, and fully
encapsulated
by the resin. BTW, the keel bolts typically are not all in a
row, but
staggered to result in maximum distance between bolts to
distribute
the sizable weight (and leverage) of the ballast keel to the
largest
structural area.TW, your recollection is identical with what I’ve seen in
my '82
F-25, and the '87 F-28 I presently own.Herm
I think it’s just fiberglass. I remember wiping all the water
out of
my bilge when I purchased my boat to check the keel bolts. When
you
wipe the bilge dry, you should be able to inspect the big nuts
on the
keel bolts.
TWAt 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a
course woven roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to
hull
damage that was repaired.No virus found in this incoming message.
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3/14/2008 12:33 PM–
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Posted by Alan Kusinitz (akusinitz@…>)
The F-33 non centerboard versions have a
bolt on lead keel. The centerboard version has internal lead (if you look at a
picture you’ll see the full length very short keel (I think there’s a name for
this) also serves as the centerboard support/trunk) and the ballast is internal
( and I believe the board is heavy as well and serves as part of the ballast).
For the non centerboard versions the bolts
are staggered as they should be and the attachment is quite strong since it appears
they basically added glass and cross beams to the centerboard trunk/stub keel area
which was quite strong for the centerboard to begin with (I say this just as an
opinion/guess from how it looks).
Alan F-33 Hull # 51 1982
From:
FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sgaber@…
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 9:50
PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Alan Kusinitz
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup]
Freedom 32 bilge sump
Alan:
Do you know if the centerboard and shallow d raft versions of the Freedom 33
had internal (encapsulated in fiberglass) or external (bolted on) ballast?
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- Alan Kusinitz <akusinitz@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On the F-33 its woven roving. This is pretty common since the bilge
interior
doesn’t need the cosmetics of mat and gelcoat.Alan
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mariemarine19
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:24 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Freedom 32 bilge sumpCan anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a course
woven
roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull damage
that was repaired.
–
\
Posted by sgaber@…> (sgaber@…>)
Thanks, Alan.
There’s an F-33 for sale in South Carolina I’m looking at.
Don’t know what version it is. It’s a red one.
Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL
---- Alan Kusinitz <akusinitz@…> wrote:
The F-33 non centerboard versions have a bolt on lead keel. The centerboard
version has internal lead (if you look at a picture you’ll see the full
length very short keel (I think there’s a name for this) also serves as the
centerboard support/trunk) and the ballast is internal ( and I believe the
board is heavy as well and serves as part of the ballast).For the non centerboard versions the bolts are staggered as they should be
and the attachment is quite strong since it appears they basically added
glass and cross beams to the centerboard trunk/stub keel area which was
quite strong for the centerboard to begin with (I say this just as an
opinion/guess from how it looks).Alan F-33 Hull # 51 1982
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
sgaber@…
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 9:50 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Alan Kusinitz
Subject: RE: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Freedom 32 bilge sumpAlan:
Do you know if the centerboard and shallow d raft versions of the Freedom 33
had internal (encapsulated in fiberglass) or external (bolted on) ballast?Steve Gaber
Sanderling, 1967 C-31 #77
Oldsmar, FL---- Alan Kusinitz <akusinitz@yahoo. mailto:akusinitz%40yahoo.com com>
wrote:On the F-33 its woven roving. This is pretty common since the bilge
interior
doesn’t need the cosmetics of mat and gelcoat.Alan
From: FreedomOwnersGroup@ mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup@ mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mariemarine19
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:24 PM
To: FreedomOwnersGroup@ mailto:FreedomOwnersGroup%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FreedomOwnersGroup] Freedom 32 bilge sumpCan anyone tell me if the bilge on a Hoyt 32 is covered with a course
woven
roving or is it
just fiberglass? I’m trying to determine it there was keel to hull damage
that was repaired.–
–
Posted by Lola Jackson (lolaltd@…>)
After all the money I put into the electric, and upgrades…the shower bilge pump runs, but is not removing the water…any ideas? Would it also involve the fact that I don’t have electricity on the starboard side of the boat? Boatyard has a separate electric plate system on each side of the boat.Also is there anything you can add as a cleaner or sanitation solution or powder to put in the drain in the slower floor? …The sewer for smells?Curtains: Can anyone give me the source of the accordion folded curtains…they store at the top, and are pulled down and latch at the bottom…maybe look and see if address on them?Thank you…Lola
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Posted by Lola Jackson (lolaltd@…>)
Correction mine is a F30…on the shower bilge the water left the shower floor real slow…it is now in the bilge tray,but now not moving…when here the pump.The sewer I am referring to the hoses and holding tank…gotta remember to talk boat talk…Lola F30Lola Jackson <lolaltd@…> wrote: After all the money I put into the electric, and upgrades…the shower bilge pump runs, but is not removing the
water…any ideas? Would it also involve the fact that I don’t have electricity on the starboard side of the boat? Boatyard has a separate electric plate system on each side of the boat.Also is there anything you can add as a cleaner or sanitation solution or powder to put in the drain in the slower floor? …The sewer for smells?Curtains: Can anyone give me the source of the accordion folded curtains…they store at the top, and are pulled down and latch at the bottom…maybe look and see if address on them?Thank you…Lola Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Posted by Lola Jackson (lolaltd@…>)
oops, I know how to spell,hearLola Jackson <lolaltd@…> wrote: Correction mine is a F30…on the shower bilge the water left the shower floor real slow…it is now in the bilge tray,but now not moving…when here the pump.The sewer I am referring to the hoses and holding tank…gotta remember to talk boat talk…Lola F30Lola Jackson <lolaltd@yahoo.com> wrote: After all the money I put into the electric, and upgrades…the shower bilge pump runs, but is not removing the water…any ideas? Would it also involve the fact that I don’t have electricity on the starboard side of the boat? Boatyard has a separate electric plate system on each side of the boat.Also is there anything you can add as a cleaner or sanitation solution or powder to put in the drain in the slower floor? …The sewer for smells?Curtains: Can anyone give me the source of the accordion folded curtains…they store at the top, and are pulled down and latch at the bottom…maybe look and see if address on them?Thank you…Lola Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Posted by Rick Higgens (higgens@…>)
Hi Lola, if the pump is running but not pumping it’s not an electrical
problem. The pumps run off the 12V system so not having power on one
side of your boat isn’t “this” problem. These pumps are cheap and
usually just replaced when they break down. Something you can
probably do yourself since it’s just a couple wires to be crimped and
1 hose. The shower drain does work slowly on the F30. I improved
that by dropping the whole pan down a foot into the bilge. I’ll try
to write up a Hints & Tips on that as it also now doubles as a
secondary bilge pump if the primary ever fails.
Check your power panel for a tripped breaker for the circuit that
isn’t working. It could also be a tripped GFI switch on one of the
receptacles on that circuit. If one trips, the whole circuit past
that receptacle stops. Look for a button popped out on a receptacle
and push it in till it clicks.
There are several SAFE solutions to put into your holding tank by
dumping in the head and pumping through. But if your hoses are old,
that is typically one source of smell. And that’s NOT a fun job to
do! One you will wish you had the boat yard do for you. The hoses
are very tight on the connections and you are typically standing on
your head to reach them with 1 hand.
Rick F30 #12 Nauti-Belle
Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)
Lola,
let me suggest two Raritan products for your holding tank and head -
“C.P” (Cleans Potties) and “K.O.” (Kills Odors). They are a little bit
expensive compared to some of the other products, but if you put them
in spray bottles, they last a good long time.
Both of these are non-toxic, bioenzymatic cleaners that do an EXCELLENT
job of controlling boat odor, not just in the head but also in the
bilge or anywhere else you have an odor that is hard to control.
On “Glory” we have an Electro-Scan treatment unit, so we can’t use
anything that has chlorine or formaldehyde in it, and KO and CP fit the
bill perfectly. Because of the lack of formaldehyde, these are also
much easier on pumpouts and shore-based sewer systems.
Lance
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Lola Jackson <lolaltd@…>
wrote:
Correction mine is a F30…on the shower bilge the water left the
shower floor real slow…it is now in the bilge tray,but now not
moving…when here the pump.The sewer I am referring to the hoses and holding tank…gotta
remember to talk boat talk…Lola F30
Posted by lance_ryley (lance_ryley@…>)
I also meant to tell you to look for an inline strainer from your
shower sump. It’ll be between the sump and the pump, and it’s
probably clogged. On Glory, with two of us showering every day, we
have to clean the strainer weekly to keep a good strong flow.
It’s also possible that you have a damaged membrane in the pump head.
They’re pretty straightforward to replace.
Lance
— In FreedomOwnersGroup@yahoogroups.com, Lola Jackson <lolaltd@…>
wrote:
Correction mine is a F30…on the shower bilge the water left the
shower floor real slow…it is now in the bilge tray,but now not
moving…when here the pump.The sewer I am referring to the hoses and holding tank…gotta
remember to talk boat talk…Lola F30