Does anyone else have a problem with the lines getting twisted in the boom and the paired blocks (butterfly blocks?) getting stuck? Have you replaced the blocks (if so, what was your source and what are the called) or did you eliminate the “advantages” that this block system provides and go to a simple one line reefing system?
Thanks
On my F-33 I removed the blocks for the reefing lines. I left the blocks for the outhauls since the mechanical advantage was needed to pull by hand while for the reefing lines I had to use a winch anyway.
Ed, I have same problem on my f36/38. I hope to solve it in some manner. let me know how you handle it. thanks - anthony marsibilio
The blocks in the boom are for the outhaul. Mine got tangled and I removed them also. Feeling is that you can adjust the outhaul for the day before going out and then cleat it off.
At least in my boom there are two sets of blocks, one for the outhaul and a pair of “butterfly” blocks for the reefing lines. What do I lose by getting rid of the butterfly blocks? I guess (forgetting all my mechanical engineering) 1/2 of the mechanical advantage of having the blocks in there?
I don’t have any blocks in the boom for the reefing lines. It would probably help to have a block but I manage with the winch. However I sure would not like the reefing block to get stuck when I need to put a reef in. I might install a block for the outhaul as I cannot use the winch on that line and I don’t get the tension I would like.
I believe they were to supposedly aide in the luff and leech coming down together according to a rigger I spoke to. He didn’t think it was necessary or effective.
I was just perusing the forums and came across this discussion. Not sure if anyone is still interesting in ths subject, but I’ll trow in my 2 cents. I have a '95 F40/40 with the two line reef system with butterfly blocks for each of two reefs, and the outhaul cable all in the boom. I had trouble with it from the beginning when I purchased her 5 seasons ago. The first thing I found was the bird’s nest problem. Now several times per year I flush out the boom with a power sprayer. This made an improvement, but we still struggled raising the sails without having to pull all the reefing lines out of the end of boom before raising the main, which was both a pain and sometimes dangerous. Frequently lubricating all the blocks helped. My breakthrough came this year when I installed all new reef lines. I used 7/16 Sampson LXS lines. I was amazed at the differnce. I figured that the new lines had a much smoother surface and moved over the various blocks more easily. Now we can pretty much ignore fiddline with the reef lines when we raise the main.
Jim Lo Dolce
F 40/40 #16
Sackets Harbor, NY
I am in the process of removing the reefing lines and outhaul lines from my booms and plan to replace them, For the reefing lines, sinceI don’t have any additional internal blocks, i was able to just add a piece of temporay line to the end and pull them through, and reverse to pull back the new lines. The outhaul is different as it has an internal block, Can anyone tell what I need to do to change out this outhaul line?. Do I need to take the boom down and remove the end cap and sheeves or is there another way?
Interesting! I also pull my reefing lines out prior to raising the main due to tension. I have a spare set of reefing lines which I’ll try installing when we get down to Mexico.
– Geoff
My outhaul is is comprised of a cable from clew, thru one of the four pulley’s at the aft end of my boom, into the mast to a block (the block is at least 2/3 of the way forward). There is a short 3/8" line that goes thru the forward end of the cable block and is tied to a chock on the starboard side of the mast. So I have not had any need to change that line (I have changed every other line of my rigging except this one). My outhaul cable does not get in the way of the 2 sets of reef lines and butterfly blocks. The reef lines used to commonly get twisted and tangled up in the outhaul cable, but , this seemed to go away with the new Sampson XLS reef line. The XLS reef line I used is very smooth and, I think that solved a lot of my issues raising the big main on the 40/40.
I have removed all my running rigging in order to clean, repair, and replace each line as needed. I still have not ADDRESSED THE outhaul lines as I believe they are set up by a shackel from the clew to a cable that runs over the blockset at the aft end of the boom and in to the boom (not the mast as jlodolce describes on his F40/40). I bel;ieve this cabl then terminates on a block inside the boom from which a 1/4 double braid line runs and then exits from the side of the boom through a combination fairlead/clamcleat. Given this, I believe it will require me to remove the endcap and block set at the aft end of the boom in order to withdraw the internall block and line. I am trying to visualize how this arrangement must look… ie: how does th 1/4" braid penant attach or termijnate on the block. I imagine it must run over the block and then one end must be anchored inside the boom somewhere up towards the mast end, with the freeend passing AROUND THE BLOCK AND OUT THE SIDE OF THE BOOM. ?? iF ANYONE KNOWS HOW THIS IS ARRANGED AND CAN FURTHURE CLARIFY AND ILLUMINATE THIS FOR ME i WOULD BE MOST APPRECIATIVE. I probably will need to remove the boom in order to do this work…no? Or is it fgairly easy or possible to do this with the boom in place?..Rick
Rick,
“There is a short 3/8” line that goes thru the forward end of the cable block and is tied to a chock on the starboard side of the mast."
The above was a typo. I meant to state that it is tied to a chock on the starboard side of the boom, not the mast.
I will look at the setup more closely the next time I am up there (probably in a couple months since she is covered up for the winter). I’ll post a reply the next time I am there. What you describe sounds similar the way I recall mine is set up.
I would recommend taking booth end caps off to get at best at everything, but taking the mast end (tack end) off will always work, though taking the clew end can sometimes work depending on your purchase setup.
If you are taking the tack end boom cap off… the process involves cutting the outhaul wire at the schackle/swage so that it will be able to go through the pulley at the clew end. Then tape a messenger line on that is the length of the boom plus a couple of feet. Tie the free end of the messenger line to the clew end of the boom (around the boom works). You likely want to tape a messenger line to the rope end of the outhaul, too. Then when you remove the tack end cap of the boom you can pull all the internals out.
This is one version of what your outhaul may look like - it is for a cascading 6x1 purchase, drawing courtesy of the Shark fleet.
As you can see, for the purchases to work, one end needs to be fixed. The first 2x1 attaches at “A” at the mast end of the boom. Then the second 3x1 attaches separately at B, also at the mast end (the 2x3 gives you a 6x1). This cascades will more freely and take of less space than a single 6x1 purchase.
You may have something more simple than the above, a single 3x1 or 4x1.
is a 4x1. Note that if you don’t have a line terminating on the mast end cap (either directly or on a becket block that is attached to the mast end cap) you can get all the internals out from the aft end of the boom. You just need an extra long messenger line on the line end of the outhaul ( 3 or 4 times the length of the boom depending on the amount of purchase).
If you Google “internal outhaul” there is a fair amount of info on the net.
Erik & Evi
F40CC Raven
Thanks for the nicely comprehensive description of the internal outhaul setup. Yes, it is much as I had imagined and now I am confidant that when I go to change out that penant , will know what to expect. I will likely wait to do this until spring as my boat is also under cover and of course, this is only one of many tasks that I am trying to tackle. thanks for replying to my question and for your help, Rick
I just replaced all the running rigging on my Freedom 30 and I did have the single line reefing that uses the butterfly blocks. Right away I noticed that the old rigging was wrapped around the block and causing a lot of friction for my first reef point. I have everything running smoothly now and it works great at the dock but it will be interesting to see how it does this spring where SF Bay sailing requires constant reefing maneuvers.
I did find that using the liens attached to the leech of the main I could pull the butterfly blocks all the way to the end of the mast. The blocks fit through the stern of the boom so I was able to pull the block out with all the lines attached to inspect it. This made it very easy to re-rig the leech reef lines.
Michael Matthews
1987 Freedom 30 “Dawn Marie”
I can pull mine out the end of the boom as well. The key to that is having long enough lines on the mast side of the blocks so you can pull the blocks far enough aft to get at them. As I posted above, try replacing the reef lines with new line and it may run more smoothly. I found that the new lines untwisted inside the blocks without twisting the whole block aparatus, whereas the old line did not untwist inside the blocks and therefore twisted the entire block, creating a mess of twisted lines and blocks inside the boom. Also, keeping the blocks lubricated helped me. Having done this, I can raise the main without touching lines once I open the clutch. Of course, I have never forgotten to open the clutch when raising the sail… 
Hope this is helpful.
Well I removed the reefing blocks from within the boom and couldn’t be happier. Have not had even the smallest snag, so nice to not have to worry about whether I can get a reef in when it is blowing. Have seen no downside from the removal other than needing a couple of really long reefing lines to replace what I had.
FWIW
Ed, what line lengths did you use?
– Geoff
For what its worth, the reefing lines for my main mast are 1st reef: 85 feet(the rig line list for the boat staers 75’) 2nd reef 90’( rig line list says 75’) For my Mizzen mast the 1st reef is 60’(rig line liust says 55’) 2nd reef 70’( rig line list 55’) These are all 3/8 and I am using VPC. These are for my Freedom33 Cat Ketch with tall rig/deep keel and standard booms.