And it begins

So back to the original game plan. Bevel each hole, where possible, 12:1 and lay up multiple layers of glass with some 404. Will 410 afterwards. Still considering the sleeve method.

Oh and I will remove that “Back Plate Spacer” to inspect the screw holes and fill with epoxy.

The biggest issue will be low crawling into the back to set up a backer so the epoxy will not free-flow. AND the weather. Suppose to snow/rain for a week.
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Hmmm… here’s an idea… What size is your bolting? There is braided fiberglass tubing that you could sleeve the holes with. That would have the best chance of bonding to the hull and creating a seal. Go slightly oversized on the id, wax your bolts, fill the holes with thickened epoxy, and support the rudder during assembly to get everything aligned properly.

Sounds easy :smile:

Hmm - Thinking either the 1-1/4 or 1-1/2…



Structural FRP Fiberglass Round Tubes

Color: Green
Temperature Range: -60° F to 140° F
Tensile Strength: 7,000-30,000 psi (Good)
Impact Strength: 4-25 ft.-lbs./in. (Excellent)
Hardness: Barcol 45 (Hard)
For Use Outdoors: Yes
Strong and lightweight, these FRP fiberglass tubes are an alternative to wood in structural applications. They are made of fiberglass-reinforced polyester.

3D CAD models availableFor technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

5 ft. Lg.
10 ft. Lg.
OD OD Tolerance ID Straightness
Tolerance Each Each
1/8" Wall Thick. (-0.0400" to 0.0400")
1" -0.04" to 0.04" 3/4" 0.03” per ft. 8535K71 $25.09 8535K21 $43.51
1 1/4" -0.04" to 0.04" 1" 0.03” per ft. 8535K26 30.92 8535K76 53.78
1 1/2" -0.04" to 0.04" 1 1/4" 0.03” per ft. 8535K72 35.27 8535K22 61.32
1 3/4" -0.04" to 0.04" 1 1/2" 0.03” per ft. 8535K27 38.59 8535K77 67.11
1/4" Wall Thick. (-0.0400" to 0.0400")
2" -0.04" to 0.04" 1 1/2" 0.03” per ft. 8535K73 71.90 8535K23 128.97
1/2" Wall Thick. (-0.0750" to 0.0750")
3" -0.04" to 0.04" 2" 0.03” per ft. 8535K74 160.90 8535K24 289.75
McMaster Fiberglass Tube.png

Something like this? McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Hollow-Rods/halogen-free-garolite-g-10-tubes/material~garolite/reinforcement-material~fiberglass-fabric/

Ships passing in the night…

So Typical Up Here…

McMaster

39" section was $79.

Shipping to Alaska $92.

Nope I shall keep looking

McMaster is great if you need it tomorrow and don’t have time to search for another source, But they are very expensive.

I am searching for fiberglass tubing for a different project and found this source: https://mgs4u.com/product/1-od-round-tube/

They offer similar pultruded fiberglass tubing, 1" OD x 3/4" ID in pre-cut lengths of 6", 23-1/4", 48-1/2", and 93". Shipping on the 6" or 23-1/4" pieces should be more reasonable, even to Alaska. The 23-1/4" piece is $6.30 and for reference, they offer shipping to Anchorage is $17.95.

Cheers

Yes so much better with S/H. I need to head down and measure. The 6" version may be the ticket. Now for the weather to warm up to above freezing. Thanks for the research. It’s one less thing to do.

NOW to purchase 1000-ft of Line to replace ALL of the running rigging. $190 to ship 4 (300-ft) spools to Alaska. Not too bad.

Today I THREW some 404 slop over the holes as a temporary solution to keep rain out. Will not get to the actual fix till spring.

I also had a coworker fly his drone to get some mast head views. Looks like my main had a “rub spot” that will need attention also this spring.
Photo_1080295495_DJI_71_jpg_4402967_0_2021109131418_photo_original_compress57.jpg

View of a similar design sail for my mizzen and main. Slides will not present, instead grommets every 2-ft to lacing
redtuxpackage.jpg

And a majority of the new running rigging showed up. Eye splices to follow. Still have some dyneema enroute.
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Well I have to say my rope splicing skills for double braid sucks. Will keep working on it. Ordering more dynmeea to replace the wishbone stays. SO much eaiser to splice via brummel lock and whipping. Slowly going thru each line and associated blocks. Every 4th or 5th block i am having to replace.

Break in the action. Winter has arrived and I have been focusing on getting the sails figured out.
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Looks like sails will be going out for production soon.

Bow


Now to really bite the bullet. Really considering a new Beta 25 or 30. Has anyone repowered their F-33 and if so what size motor?

Hello, I reengined F33/35 CK with Beta 30. Many details should be in the forum history, otherwise come back to me. 25 has just enough power but (in 2011) had a very sharp torque curve which means that either it will not reach full revs or you need to under-prop. 30 is better. 25 has a very appealing small size. Main thing is to take plenty of time over the project. Beta is a very good company.

Thanks Mike. Pretty much what Beta is recommending. I will need to change my prop also since my current one is too big. Guess I could sale it for cheap. I have to give them a call tomorrow to start working out the details. Everything has been email up to this point. Shipping from California to Alaska will be interesting.

I like the “C” panel, high rise exhaust?, separate header tank due to hot water loops, etc etc. Basically a lot of measurements to be taken.

Just got my offical quote. New beta 30 with various upgrades, new 15" prop and shipped CA to AK (my front door). $14,800. I know I could rebuild for cheaper but I like the idea of new… I basically told him we will be a go. Have to run down and do some engine bed measurements this weekend.

I will be installing myself with some help.

[quote=arrancomrades post_id=54134 time=1638712436 user_id=5990]
Hello, I reengined F33/35 CK with Beta 30. Many details should be in the forum history, otherwise come back to me. 25 has just enough power but (in 2011) had a very sharp torque curve which means that either it will not reach full revs or you need to under-prop. 30 is better. 25 has a very appealing small size. Main thing is to take plenty of time over the project. Beta is a very good company.
[/quote]

Hey Mike did you happen to create a detailed drawing of the engine bed for the 33 ck? I was down there today measuring the front ones and the back section. Beta is inquiring.

Well it warmed up to 21-f (- something c) so time to start pulling the motor. Piece by piece but for now just enough to get more measurements.
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The “goody pile” is growing. Waiting for my son to bring plastic totes so u can remove the fuel filter.
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